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RE: Alignment



Phil writes:
>>No, the specification is 'unladen'.  Everything except the spare wheel
>>is removed and the tank is 1/4 full, as specified.

Why is that specification the way it is?  1 thing changes, so do the 
specifications.  I would argue those that align with the "usual" toys and 
driver in the car, have the 'better' alignment.  I don't drive with a quarter 
tank and no toys in the trunk, ever.

> To answer your question, though: No, I can't align a car more
> accurately than to 1/32" using my home-brew method. I also don't
> think it's possible to align a suspension full of rubber bushings
> and parts that swing through conflicting arcs to .08 degrees,
> either.  Next time your car is aligned, try backing it off the rac
> drive it 50' without turning the steering wheel and put it back on
> the rack and see how close the second set of measurements matches
> the first...

>>I didn't write the specification that calls for rear toe of minus
>>five minutes of arc plus or minus five minutes of arc - Audi did.
>>If you can't achieve that tolerance, your car is out of specification
>>and I'm not surprised at anything it does close to the limit.

Slow down here a bit Phil.  Audis specifications, IME have a 'range' that 
almost any alignment monkey lad can attain (in fact after meeting a couple 
swiftees, the range must be generous:), and from a marque comparative 
standard, are massive, especially in the camber adjustment.  We are looking 
for specifics.  We could argue the accuracy of a home brew, but the fact is, 
a machine is a fancy string and tape measure with the calculations built in.  
Jeff's points are dead nuts on.  Do an alignment, take a ride, do it again.  
If you are lucky, all the settings are in the proper range, they won't be the 
same, btdt.

>Well, you shouldn't have done _that_, either.  The book clearly calls
>for a minimum of 1000kms for the new struts to settle before alignment
>is attempted.It's not a question of "finding a shop that will put the time 
in".
>Audi's specifications are just that, and are not negotiable.  If the
>shop can't achieve them, go somewhere else.

I disagree, the best alignment is only as good as the setup.  That takes 
time.  Audis specifications are just that, and *ARE* negotiable.  What do you 
change if you add wider wheels and tires (that aren't oem offered).  What 
alignment differences are there between a S6 with 16 in wheels (225) and one 
with 17in wheels (245)?  Any reason to revise the range that you can think 
of?  What would you do to change caster?

Phil, I'm just not with you on this.  Alignments aren't black magic, and 
hardly rocket science,  the machines are an evolution of the string and tape 
measure, and *may* be more accurate, but I argue usually aren't.  I'm anal 
about setup, and retest, most shops aren't.

I will also note Phil, that if you didn't change your T44 swaybar bushings 
before your alignment, you aren't in front end spec anymore, guarantee.  The 
reason a couple of us old time 44 dudes are asking.

Scott Justusson