URQ sorting out

[DGraber460@aol.com]

Made a depressing discovery tonight, that I think explains why I can't dial 
in the fuel system. Gave up with the meters and gauges, and went with what 
has served me well for 25 years; ear & reading plugs.
When I first got the car together, and started for the first time, it was 
very rich and sooted/carboned the plugs. As I grew closer to spec, the plugs 
started to lighten up and gradually burn off the carbon. To get a more 
accurate read, I put in the set of plugs from my donor Coupe. Number 2 plug 
now shows black and wet after a road test, while the rest all look great.
Tomorrow I'll have to buy a compression gauge and test it wet and dry to see 
if it's a valve seal or ring problem. Has anyone replaced valve seals using 
the compressed air to hold the valve up system with the head on the car? I'm 
thinking it might just be better to pull the head and do the valves. 
I sure didn't want to do this much to the motor, but "them's the breaks."
The recent talk about water injection has me wandering about holding the idle 
up, injecting some water spray to "decarbonize" before disassembly. Good or 
bad idea?
FWIW the wires are from the Coupe and were doing great when removed.
AHA, now I know why the car was being disassembled to get a 20V motor.
OH CRAP!! I just realized that this will entail dealing with the dreaded EM 
studs. Now I'm really depressed.
I do have a used turbo motor that followed me home from the Santa Fe Salvage 
dispersal. It's a KH 012 390 with an 035 103 373 AB head. Is any of that of 
any use to me now? The URQ head is a 035 103 373 G. What is the difference 
between the AB head and the G head? Are the cams or valves interchangeable?
Sorry about the bandwidth Phil, but I need help

Down but not out in Denver ( I _will_ persevere )
Dennis