Re: No spark 4ktq project

[Todd Phenneger <phen9461@uidaho.edu>]

Dave,
	Thanks for the Wonderful reply.  YOu answered every question that
is has taken like 15 messages to figure out from other people.  And thanks
for tellign me the difference between the RPM and TDC sender and
correcting my hall Sender mistake.  Now I know.  Thanks
	I'm going to double check all wiring this weekend and hopefully
get some spark.
	I apperently also have figureed out that I have one wire missing
fromt he coil.  Actually two wires on a small 2-pin connector that plugs
into the bottom of the coil.  So once I get the TDC/RPM sensors verified
and get the coil hooked up right, hopefully it will work.
	Then I get to deal witht he FPR again.  I thought I had it all
wired right but I'll ahve to check.
	Thanks

	Todd Phenneger
	1983 ur-q / black / getting a MC
	1984 4000 quattro / modified/ turbo conv almost done.
	1987 4000 quattro / Saphire Metallic Blue/ Girlfriend's
	1996 A6q / Volcano / Dads Car
   *****1985 5kt / PARTING OUT!

On Wed, 27 Oct 1999, Lawson, Dave wrote:

> Todd,
> 
> First off, I will say I am familiar with the MC conversion in my ur-q, 
> not a KH conversion as you are doing. After reviewing the ECU pinouts,
> they don't appear to be radically different, so I am assuming they
> both function is the same basic way. Having said that, the previous
> assumption might be wrong.
> 
> >	1) Fuel.  I have fuel, but I have to much.  when I turn key to ON
> >position, FP jsut stays on.  I'm suspecting a Bad Check Valve or something
> >leaking pressure off.  This with the assumption that the FP turns off when
> >a certain FP is reached.  I guess that pressure is not being reached.  
> 
> The FP doesn't turn off at a given pressure level, it runs all the time
> the engine is running. On my MC conversion, the FP does not run
> when the ignition is turned on. The only ground for the FPR, should
> be to the ECU, the ECU controls when the FP runs through the FPR.
> The FPR ground should be connected to ECU pin 21.
> 
> >	2) Spark.  this is the one that baffles me.  i have the wires
> >hooked up to the coil right.  (I'll verify this this weekend)  I ran out
> >of time to troubleshoot but I wanted to run it by the list before next
> >weekend.  If I have the Hall Sendor and timing TDC pickup connected to the
> >wrong connecots, would that cause it.  
> 
> I assume you are talking about the sensors which are mounted on the left
> side of the engine/tranny. These are for the TDC and the RPM sensor. 
> The RPM sensor should be mounted in the hole where you can see the
> flywheel teeth. The TDC sensor should be mounted in the other hole and
> it sees the pin on the flywheel which signals 62 degrees before TDC.
> It is correct that these devices are hall effect sensors, but...
> 
> On Audis there is a sensor labeled the hall sender which is located in
> the distributor. This is different from the RPM and TDC sensors described 
> above.
> 
> 
> >	I'm not sure which wire on the harness side is the right one.  I
> >guess the labels fell off and they are all Grey in color.  I think I have
> >the Knock sensor figured out from doing a continuity check.  but the other
> >two share round or something so I get continuity to both connectors when I
> >try to check them at the other end.  I think I have it right but not sure.
> 
> 
> Your are correct that the RPM and TDC sensors use a common shield, you
> should get continuity on ECU pin 28. But you should also be able to do
> harness continuity checks for the following and figure out which sensor 
> goes with what connector.
> 
> RPM +           ECU pin 11
> RPM -            ECU pin 29
> 
> TDC +            ECU pin 12
> TCD -             ECU pin 13
> 
> 
> 
> >	Maybe I miss labeled the wires themselves.  Which sensor and Hall
> >and whichi s the TDC sensor.  One is on top of the other one.  
> 
> You are definately talking about the TDC and RPM sensors which are
> mounted on the same mounting block. In audi speak, neither of these are
> the Hall Sender.
> 
> >	Also, Bently specifies Gapping the Sensors.  I didn't do this.
> >Engine was int he car and tranny installed when I installed the sensors.
> >oops.  But I dotn see what this does.  There are no shims for them.  How
> >do you change gap???  Finally, I painted block.  Does sensor bottom need
> >to contact metal or jsut the screws.  maybe this is the problem.  I'm
> >assuming my problem is int hs area but not sure.  
> 
> I placed some plasti-gauge in the end of the sensor and mounted it, removed 
> it and checked to see if it was touching, it wasn't and proceeded on
> assuming 
> that eveything should work, which in my case it did.
> 
> >Any way to check the
> >coil to make sure it works properly??  how do I check wires to coil to
> >make sure coil is getting the signal to fire?  A Multi-Meter wont react
> >fast enough.  Do I turn Ignition ON and turn crank by hand and watch for a
> >voltage fluctuation (12v???) on the input wire??
> 
> there should be 2 wires going from the ECU to the coil, ECU pin 2 IGN
> module gnd and ECU pin 22, ign module control signal. On my MC 
> conversion, I also have the ur-q tach signal hooked to the - side of the ign
> 
> module. I didn't bother using the ECU tach signal. For orientation of
> the coil, place the coil in front of you with the plug wire connection
> facing
> away from you. The set of spade connections on your left are the negative
> and the spade connectors in you right are the positive. In this orientation,
> the spades are also facing away. I scratched  a + and - into the plastic on 
> the coil so these won't get swapped.
> 
> HTH.
> -
> Dave Lawson
>