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Re: 5000cstq clutch replacement snag



Same thing happened to me last year. Pin comes out, slave doesn't. Tried
heat, penetrating oil, hammer and chisel. Nada. Took it to my dad's
mechanic and it was air chiseled out. No alternative. The a**hole did nick
the hydraulic line leading to it and getting a new one was a bi*ch. That's
a different horror story altogether. Get the hydraulic line out first if
you opt for this route.

****************************************************************************
*Steve                                             Sachelle Babbar
*'87  5000CS Turbo 5spd 1.3-2.0 bar             <SBABBAR@IRIS.NYIT.EDU>
*Cockpit adjustable wastegate, AudiSport badge
*
*Disclaimer:"Any information contained herein is based purely on my own
*personal experience and may not necessarily reflect yours. Use caution as
*your results may vary from mine."
********************************************************************************
                                                                               



On Thu, 28 Oct 1999, Douglas M. McCarty wrote:

> I've been lurking on this list for months now, picking up a lot of
> useful information and usually finding what I need without having to
> post a message. This clutch job is a little overwhelming though and I'm
> running into problems at almost every step. The most serious snag now is
> that I can't get the slave cylinder out. I drove out the roll pin (only
> after modifying a pin punch by turning down the end to locate it in the
> pin) but I still can't move it. I did manage to break off the bleeder
> screw by trying to drive the slave out with a pipe and hammer from the
> engine compartment. This is not a big problem since I already have a new
> slave cylinder to replace it. 
> Has anyone seen this problem before? I'm particularly worried that I
> won't be able to separate the bell housing and transmission from the
> engine with this thing in there, though I haven't gotten that far yet.
> My own theory is that the rod from the slave cylinder has slid past the
> release lever and gotten jammed there. I have tried working the clutch
> pedal to push out the cylinder but it doesnąt budge. Any ideas?
> The clutch breakdown was amazingly abrupt. I heard a high pitch
> whirring-buzzing sound when the clutch pedal was pushed fully to the
> floor for two days prior to the event. Still, shifting was smooth and
> there was no problem in take-up, and no slipping. When I pulled out of
> our driveway on the third day, the clutch pedal felt like it broke loose
> from something and then no more clutch action. The pedal does still come
> back up but cannot be pushed down very far with reasonable force.
> Anyway, my current plan is to continue to disassemble and see if I can
> pull the transmission off. That is, unless anyone has a better idea.
> I have been watching Gisli's slipping clutch thread with deep concern. I
> know the prospect of tearing this down again would be pretty sickening.
> If I have any new insight while I'm in there I will definitely pass it
> on. As far as the question of refacing the flywheel goes though, my
> understanding from the manual is that the 5000s have a taper-cut
> flywheel that cannot be re-cut.
> Anyway, this list has been a great resource for me and a real pleasure
> to read through. I can't tell you'all how much it is appreciated. 
> 
> TIA Doug, 1988 5000cstq
> 
>