[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: auto-trans questions
> Second, either convert it to synthetic (we use
> Mobil 1)or be sure to put in a good additive, such as
> Militec 1, that will help loosen those sticking valves
> in the trannie.
I definately recommend the Mobil1. Made a difference in the shifting of my
trans. Do this: the first time, pull the pan and all that other junk. ou
will only get a third of the fluid out. Make sure that the dipstick tube
to pan nutis left removable at a later time (I don't mean finger tight,
but not monkey lad tight). After a few days, drain the fluid (without
dropping pan). Another few days, drain and refill once again. This will
li=eave you with perhaps 90% new, sythetic fluid and much of the debris
will be removed in this manner. The first fluid-only change, you may elect
to remove the pan (the pan seal is reusable) just to check if the
Mobil/new fluid released and contaminants. If so, clean.
Now, Militec, I highly advise against it. Left two of my transmissions in
*severe* slipping conditions. Softens shifts and they gradually go into
undetectable. I would recommend a product that I've used successfully for
years with no ill effects. It's made by Solder Seal/ Gunk products. Called
trans-medic, I believe. Simply a friction modifying additive with no
sealer. good stuff, noticeably tightens the tranny shift quality. use this
on the third replacement. ~$3.00.
****************************************************************************
*Steve Sachelle Babbar
*'87 5000CS Turbo 5spd 1.3-2.0 bar <SBABBAR@IRIS.NYIT.EDU>
*Cockpit adjustable wastegate, AudiSport badge
*
*Disclaimer:"Any information contained herein is based purely on my own
*personal experience and may not necessarily reflect yours. Use caution as
*your results may vary from mine."
********************************************************************************
On Fri, 29 Oct 1999 MHLIGGINS@aol.com wrote:
> <<The car, BTW, was owned by a care- and clueless
> moron before me; the transmission engages quickly
> (and harshly? Compared to my Caprices, anyway)
> most of the time, >>
> This is considered a GOOD THING.
>
> <<though it's sometimes slow to switch
> to 3rd after letting off the accel. after accellerating
> hard in 2nd.>>
> This *might be* a BAD THING.
>
> You need to do a few things. First, have the filter
> changed in the trannie. While the cover is off have a
> knowledgable mech look at the valve body and see if any
> garbage has collected. If it has, and the valves are a
> bit stiff you are in luck -- that's probably the cause
> of the shifting glitches.
> Third, have someone check the fluid in the final
> drive. See if it's low. If it is, that IS a bad thing.
> If it isn't consider yourself blessed. Either way have
> the final drive fluid changed, using a synthetic
> replacement, we use Red Line but there are several.
>
> If the valves were not sticking in your trannie you
> are probably going to find that the final drive was low
> on oil. That helped overheat the trans. Which make
> things go wrong inside of it. The trannie is on the way
> to failure. It's a function of when, not if.
> Based on experience of several folk on the list
> (us included) your best bet is to bite the bullet and
> get a trannie rebuild, but NOT one done by a local shop.
> Those seem to almost always wind up being horror stories
> (such as the 3 months it took to get ours back -- and
> three times removed/replaced.)
> I've forgotten the name of the company in Oregon
> that is well known for the rebuilds, but someone on the
> list will remember.
> As with many things Audi, preventive maintenance is
> an important factor in the slushboxes hanging on. Change
> the fluid on some kind of regular basis, even though the
> factory says otherwise. Check the final drive oil every
> time you change the ATF. Always use synthetics to help
> lessen the effects of heat.
>
> Later.
> --ml
>
>