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Fixed Idle Oscillation
I'm not a list regular, and utilize it primarily when I'm seeking advice for
a problem with my 88 80Q. People have been extremely helpful to me on those
occasions.
I'd like to provide information on my recent solution of a problem I'd been
experiencing for a considerable amount of time with an oscillating idle rpm
and a more recent problem with the engine dying at idle when cold. I'd been
informed on list that the former problem was an idiosyncrasy of audis and I
might as well learn to live with it (or replace the idle stabilization
controls frequently - expensive). For the latter problem I suspected faulty
cold start controls.
It turned out that neither were the culprits. Both problems were fixed with
15 minutes work (after many hours of scratching my head) and $23 spent at the
audi dealership. The culprit was a badly leaking hose (vacuum?) from the
idle stabilization control valve to the intake manifold. There are two hoses
connecting to the idle stabilization valve. The bad one was the bottom of
the two. It sits on top of very hot engine components and was deteriorated
very badly from the heat and age.
The hose is buried beneath the intake manifold, and it looks like you have to
remove the intake manifold to get to it. I got an estimate from my local
repair shop for $100. While pondering this expense, I picked up the part
from the dealership and was surprised to see that it was only about 8 inches
in length and did not require clamps at either ead. I decided to see if I
might possibly be able to replace the hose myself without taking off the
intake manifold.
As it turned out, the air stabilization valve lifts directly off of its mount
providing just enough room to pry off the old hose. The old hose pulled off
of the intake end mount even more easily. I sprayed the new hose ends with
silicon to make the blind assembly to the intake end mount as easy as
possible. After a few minitues of blindly trying to line up the hose to the
intake mount, presto it slipped right into place. You can see the idle
stabilization valve connection, so that is no problem. Drop the idle
stabilization valve back on its mount and the job is done.
Its beautiful when a nagging problem can be solved at minimum expense. The
car runs better now than it did 90,000 miles ago when I bought it with 66,00
miles on it.
Speaking of that, I would like to replace my 88 80Q with either a 20v Q or a
'93-'95 90Q. I'd appreciate any advice on reasons for chosing one over the
other.