RE: 5000 clutch stuff

[QSHIPQ@aol.com]

Douglas writes
>Thanks to all who responded to my clutch slave cylinder question. I now
>have the tranny  out safely on the garage floor. For better or worse, I
>followed the method of hammering on the slave cylinder until I cracked
>the hose and then just cut it loose. 

FYI, the method I always use is to drop the trans with slave and hose 
attached.  disconnect the hose at the MC hardline, and just take the whole 
thing with trans.  Once the trans is out, slave removal and install with the 
line is pretty straight forward.

>For anyone still wondering about the correct orientation of the clutch
>disc, it has the spring cage facing the pressure plate just like in all
>of the pictures in Bently and Haynes. I tried reversing the disc just to
>see if it can go that way and the spring cage does interfere against the
>flywheel. This might not be true though with a new clutch which has 0.05
>inches more lining on each side than my worn one (nearly to the rivets).
>I will check that after I clean everything up. I took the trouble to
>keep a can of spray paint with me under the car to mark the positions of
>  all the major components.

IME, you can't put the oem sachs cage in backwards on either the dished or 
the flat flywheel.  I haven't done other brands, but IME, usually when there 
is a possibility of a backwards, "flywheel" is marked on the clutch face that 
goes to it.

>R.E. the earlier clutch slipping discussion: I did notice a small
>caution in Bently last night which said that the new pressure plate will
>have a corrosion resistant coating which should be cleaned only off of
>the friction surface.  I am wondering if Gisli's clutch slippage could
>caused by not cleaning off this coating.

Possible, however, that will burn off eventually.  My thinking is that the 
spec for the dished flywheel is very tight, and once you are too deep, clutch 
slips, new or old.  Few audi techs turn a dished flywheel, since most service 
shops can't get +/-.005 tolerance, much less guarantee it.  Even with visible 
cracks on a dished flywheel, just a quick clean up of the surface with 
sandpaper is better than risking a bad flywheel turn.  To correctly turn the 
dished flywheel, the flywheel to PP mating surface also has to be turned.  
Which means all the pins in the flywheel need to be removed.  Not easy, nor 
fun, nor a project most shops are willing to do.  I got a call from 
Centerforce Technical Desk once a couple of years ago, because a new install 
resulted in slippage as well.  Ends up the face was cut without the lip cut, 
new clutch with out of spec (but beautifully crosscut) flywheel.  Bummer for 
all.

>Surprisingly, the clutch failure in my case was caused by one of the tab
>ends breaking off the release bearing. The metal fragments were very
>blue from heat, which might have come from bearing failure or from
>running into the pressure plate after the fact. 
>Does anyone know if a new set of clips and retaining springs comes with
>the new release bearing? Mine were pretty badly ground up.Thanks again to 
all.

Yes, the TOB includes new retaining springs (the ones that attach it to the 
release fork).  Don't forget to also replace the TOB sleeve (get the metal 
one), and the input shaft seal.  The heat was most likely due to overheating 
of the TOB, this results in failure, period.  I've seen the clutches where 
you wouldn't know what crap was the TOB, and what was the disintegrated PP 
pieces parts.


>Doug  1988 5000cstq
>P.S. I am taking some advantage of the clutch situation by replacing my
>split CV boots. Getting the axel shafts out without the tranny in there
>is a breeze.

You might want to take a gander at your steering rack too, much easier to get 
to with the trans out.

HTH

Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ Performance Tuning
QSHIPQ@aol.com
'87 5ktqwRS2 - 10vt
'84 RS2URQ - 20vt
'87 4Runner turbo - RESQ