type 44 front susp tips

["D.A.K." <dak@rochester.rr.com>]

Now that I've spent 9 hours over the weekend replacing parts on my '87 5KTQ,
I'm back with some more tips. But first, let me list the parts I replaced;
 - control arms
 - tie rod ends
 - upper strut bearings and bushings
So, everythings is tight up there and now it's time for that alignment so I can
use the new tires I bought a month and a half ago... :-)

So, this list might not contain any revelations, and some tipe apply to any
type
of work you might be doing...

1. Latex glove. I can't say enough about how these have saved my hands! Sure,
they
rip once and a while, replace 'em. I used 4 or 5 pairs on this job. Also, when
they start getting gunked up, wipe them off with a paper towel and keep going.
The sight of clean hands when you take them off is always a relief. The last
thing
I miss after long hours on the car is scrubbing my hands! Now, if I could just
keep the wrists as clean!

2. When separating the the ball joint from the strut assembly, DO remove the
stabalizer bar mount on that side. DON'T try doing this without removing the
mount.
It might be possible if you have a helper, but not worth the trouble. I forgot
in 80,000 miles (and 5.5 years), and wasted almost an hour messing with the
ball joint.

3. I'm not Mr. Universe, but not a weakling either. Those struts are heavy! I
used
a floor jack to help ease the strut back up into the strut tower. Again, a
helper
would come in handy here.

4. Locktite 242. I used it on everything. I know some people will write me back
saying I should have replaced the self locking nuts, but "nuts" to that! I'm
not
doing any track driving and based on my experience (and miles on the car),
using
locktite not only keeps rust out of the threads, but keeps the nut from
vibrating
loose. I did replace the ball joint bolt (as required since it streaches).

5. Did I mention that the 3/8" air ratchet is my best friend? Once loosening
nuts,
that thing just zips them off. Now I even sound like a real mechanic, much to
the
chagrin of my neighbors. The 3/8" impact wrench came in handy with the strut
nut
also (the one on the top of the shock).

6. DO get spring compressors! The ones I got were $10 from harbor freight and
work
just fine. I used the air ratchet to tighten and loosen them. The manual spring
compressors without air tools was a real pain in the A$$. These compressors
have
the double hooks on one end, so they don't slip like the single hook type. I
rented
the later years ago and they ARE dangerous.

7. When removing the control arm, loosen the stabalizer bar end-nut first, then
remove the strut, then unbolt the stabalizer bar and finally the control arm.
The first time, I tried to un-bolt the stabalizer bar and control arm first and
I think it was more difficult.

The first side I did took 5 hours, the second 4.  Good Luck!

	David Kavanagh