RE: 4 questions on 016

[QSHIPQ@aol.com]

M.  McCarty writes:

>1) the ball on the shift lever is wobbly and I'm wondering if it can be
>taken off and peened tight again without risk of damage.
The bushing on the shift rod can be replaced, a better way of fixing the 
slop.  If the ball is too worn (I doubt this), replace it.

>2) I have drained both the tranny front section and final drive from
>their respective two drain holes. Do they both fill from the one hole
>that I can see in the front section or does the final drive have to be
>filled separately?
They are filled from the same hole (in front of the trans above the front 
drain plug).  Do not exceed the max fluid for the trans.  The procedure is to 
do it in the car (to bottom of feed hole), though just level is good on the 
table.  Again, Bentley lists the exact amount of fluid for the trans.  
Exceeding it, can cause leaking in the input shaft seal.  BTW, replacing that 
input shaft seal, the pilot bearing (in the crank) and the crank seal is a 
good idea.  Don't forget to locktite the flywheel bolts too, you can get oil 
leakage around the threads.  Also, Bentley has the torque specifications for 
the flywheel and the PP listed backwards in the clutch section (but correctly 
in the trans section).  ***Don't*** put 55ft/lbs of torque on the PP allen 
bolts!

>3) In playing around with the differential lock on the bench and turning
>the input shaft, I don't find any difference in the way the transmission
>operates, locked or unlocked. ie, I turn the input clockwise and all
>three shafts turn clockwise; I hold one front drive flange and the other
>continues clockwise; the rear drive always turns with the input shaft.
>Does this sound right? Can the Diff. lock be tested on the bench?

The difference between an unloaded open diff, and an unloaded locked diff in 
terms of what happens to the shafts is the same.  Did the diff lock light 
come on before you took the trans out?  If it did, it's most likely working.  
The best test is to put 2 wheels up in the air, 2 on the ground (f/r), when 
locked, the 2 fronts won't rotate without the 2 rears.  I've never seen a 
front diff failure in terms of the locking diff mechanism.  The vacuum 
actuators fail quite regularly though.  Bottom Line:  Really isn't a bench 
test, it's an installed test.

>4) I have a new release bearing and guide sleeve from Carlsen and
>specified a metal guide sleeve, which I did get. But I notice that the
>inside of the release bearing is plastic while my old one was metal. Are
>these parts compatable? If so, should the guide sleeve be lubricated or
>not?
Yes, general purpose grease (lightly) is fine.  The plastic v metal release 
bearings are interchangeable and really don't affect performance of the part, 
IME.  Also, use the package of grease that comes with the clutch kit to lube 
the input shaft splines.  Failure to do this can result in an expensive 
clutch redo.

That was relatively easy....

HTH

Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ Performance Tuning
QSHIPQ@aol.com
'87 5ktqwRS2-10vt 
'84 RS2URQ - 20vt
'87 4Runner turbo RESQ