Re: homemade ic

[Sachelle Babbar <sbabbar@iris.nyit.edu>]

The 1" is simply to large and multiple ones won't flow well or allow
(mainly) decent heat transfer, due to lower surface area and and area
exposed to cooling air. You'll notice on the stock ic, the core tubes are
oval shaped to have more air flow on the top and bottom large area
surfaces. The rear, small area has the least airflow, but still decently
exposed. This also creates less of a restriction as the air flows from
front to rear within the matrix. The round core tubes I'll be using will
not be engineered like this. I will experiment to see if I can ovalize
them and consistently at that.

I was thinking 2-3" 45 degree elbows for the u junction and
inlets/outlets. Simply, too large and extremely heavy. They will take
precious space away from the core (even with lots of cutting) and will
bring the weight of the device way up there. Currently, I have 2 2.5", 45
degree elbows for the u junction and 1 45 2.5" for the inlet and outlet.
They have been cut down to accomodate the core which is 9 1/2 inches in
length, with total length of the ic being 19 inches, same as stock.

****************************************************************************
*Steve                                             Sachelle Babbar
*'87  5000CS Turbo 5spd 1.3-2.0 bar             <SBABBAR@IRIS.NYIT.EDU>
*Cockpit adjustable wastegate, AudiSport badge
*
*Disclaimer:"Any information contained herein is based purely on my own
*personal experience and may not necessarily reflect yours. Use caution as
*your results may vary from mine."
********************************************************************************
                                                                               



On Thu, 9 Dec 1999, Swann, Benjamin R.  (BSWANN) wrote:

> 
> Got me thinkin'
> 
> I've got hotwater baseboard heating in my house.  Don't know exactly where
> you get this, prolly local pluming supply, but it consists of 1" Cu tubing
> surrounded by fins.
> 
> imagine - big 3" Cu drain pipe with elbows to make outer frame.
> 
> drill holes in big pipe on sides.  solder several sections of the heater
> elements so they go across. 
> 
> Y or Tee at bottom right intake and another one at top exit can wrap around
> with Cu plastic or rubber pipe back into throttle body.
> 
>         ____________________
> exit <-((_(_(______________ )
>  Y       \ \==============} |
>           | ||||||||||||||| |
>           | (=============) | <-3" pipe
>           | ||||||||||||||| |
>           | (=============) |
>           | ||||||||||||||\_\_
>           ( ______________)___)<-intake Y 
> 
> basically is a radiator made out of baseboard heater core and 3" Pipe.
> 
> Wish I could draw a better picture(Actually I could with Visio if i had the
> time).  Since you're doing this and have the time to experiment - just an
> idea to add to yours.  Would be nice to have a low cost low resistance IC
> built from pluming supply and homedepot parts.
> 
> Compared to the small tubing in the stock IC (observerd when end cap blew
> off) - I'd expect this would flow better.  Now where did I put my acetyline
> tank?
> 
> Ben Swann
> '854KSQ
> '875KSQTW
> 
>  **************************************
> 
> Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 12:46:18 -0500 (EST)
> From: Sachelle Babbar <sbabbar@iris.nyit.edu>
> Subject: homemade ic thanks/clarification
> 
> 
>