Re: SS EM Studs

["Pat Martin" <mardkins@email.msn.com>]

> 2. the reason the steel stud breaks is because it is corroded, eh?  You
> go to retighten the nut and the stud can't take it anymore.

Not sure I agree here.  Is it corrosion or heat cycling?   I think
re-tightening might be a problem right there.  The majority of the problems
I have seen are when a nut comes loose and you try to re-tighten.  This is
on a stud that has taken several trips to over 7-800 degrees.  Now if
someone can figure out a way to keep that damn nut tight for the long haul I
might just jump.

> 3.  my experience, small as it is, seems to include lots of stripped
> threads in the heads requiring heli-coils.  This is because the steel
> stud is winning in that battle.

I have had to use MANY heli-coils and it usually is when the new one is
going in.

> 4. harder and stronger are not interchangeable words.

Brittle comes to mind when describing an old stud (myself included ;-)

> shall we take this to a web site?

I think the moderators on the list might just be on to us.


> PS, after three years, s/s nuts came right off my old studs.  I suspect
> most of us take things apart so often they will never seize again, it's
> dealing with the 15 year old rusted, untouched factory stuff that is
> difficult.

Now I was talking studs not nuts.  I can see some real advantage to the
nuts.  Especially if they have good self locking abilities.

Pat Martin
86 4000csq turbo, 2 1/2 cat back, H&R-Boge, MC and loving it.  Drilled and
stopping it. Koenig Cobra 16x7 with Yokohama Avs intermediates turning it,
K&N and uh..
84 4000sq  AKA: The beater.
95 subaru legacy
Bothell, Wa