[200q20v] Water Pump??

[Mark Trank]

Scott:

Sorry to follow-up with a dumb question, but I'm in the same boat at the
previous lister.  I purchased my 91 200q from the original owner at 79k
miles.  Dealer replaced the timing belt, tensioner and V-belts at 60k, but
not the water pump.  Is your best advice at this point to have the water
pump replaced together with the TB etc?  Is it prudent to wait until the
next TB interval to do it?

Many TIA.

Mark 
mtrank at albemarle.org
91 200q20v 83k miles

-----Original Message-----
From: QSHIPQ at aol.com [mailto:QSHIPQ at aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2000 8:01 AM
To: r at cm183316-a.ftwrth1.tx.home.com; mikemilr at blackfoot.net
Cc: knooptm at avicom.net; 200q20v at audifans.com; knotnook at traverse.com;
v8 at audifans.com; s-car-list at egroups.com
Subject: Re: [200q20v] Water Pump??


Water pumps on audis I5's don't seize, before they do, the front bearing 
fails and leaks fluid everywhere.  If it did seize, you can say goodbye to 
your timing belt (valvetrain/pistons) within a minute.  IME with the
O-rings, 
if you reuse an old one (or many times try to adjust the belt with a old 
pump) they'll leak.  I always make sure to clean the engine surface around 
the pump, that is a big problem on new installs that leak.

v8 water pumps aren't tooth driven (they drive off the back of the timing 
belt by friction), and *do* seize on occasion, btst.

I totally agree with *all* TB/WP R&R should be done in unison, regardless of

miles on the 'other' part on the I5.  On the v8, tho, there is a lot more 
time involved because the pump is held in with torx bolts, that strip heads 
when exposed to the elements, btdt.  The v8 WP is also held in behind the 
timing belt tensioning hardware, which is also a bigger job to remove, and 
the gasket is of the paper type, which means a lot of cleaning of the mating

surfaces is required.  I still advise it on the v8, it's just not quite as 
simple as "while I'm there" in terms of time.

Idler pulleys?  Hmm, I don't do them regularly unless it's not sounding
good. 
IME with idler pulleys is that they fail usually do to overtightening of the

TB sometime in it's lifetime.  The easy ck for that is to remove and inspect

number 1 cam journal.  An overtightened belt will show lots of grooves in
the 
journal, then the Idler pulley is a given.

HTH

Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ Performance Tuning
Chicago
'87 5ktqw
'84 RS2URQ
'83 Urq
In a message dated 11/19/00 4:28:00 AM Central Standard Time, 
r at cm183316-a.ftwrth1.tx.home.com writes:

> 
>  I have had water pumps go bad.  Never seize, but leak, and it wasn't the 
>  o-ring either.
>  
>  So let me get this straight.  To change the belt or water pump you have 
>  to take the grille off, the belts off, the cover, the IC, etc.  Why 
>  would you risk a $1500.00 plus repair bill for NOT changing the water 
>  pump and idler along with the belt?
>  
>  rich
>  
>  Mike Miller wrote:
>  
>  > ----- Original Message -----
>  > From: "Kneale Brownson" <knotnook at traverse.com>
>  > 
>  > 
>  > : I believe they usually leak before seizing, but if it does seize,  
it'll
>  > : take out the belt.  If you decide to replace the pump, replace the 
idler
>  > : too.  I'd even replace the belt while there.
>  > 
>  > What leaked on mine was the water pump O ring - Seattle dealer told me 
the
>  > pump rarely fails, it's usually a $1.50 O ring.
>  > 
>  > Tracy,
>  > Good to see another Montana 91 200. I'm near Helmville.
>  > 
>  > mike miller
>  > 
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