[200q20v] Warped UFO's - not anymore!

[QSHIPQ at aol.com]

In a message dated 1/30/01 10:46:48 AM Central Standard Time, 
b.m.benz at prodigy.net writes:

> Please tell us why you replaced the control arms, and not just the inner
>  control arm bushings.  Nothing to wear out on the control arms.  I have 
also
>  had to replace the sway bar to control arm bushings on my 250K 5KTQ, but 
not
>  the 200-20V yet at only 130K.

Data point:  Paul's car is over 220k...  Er, since I did the work (including 
luckily finding out that the 18mm C/A's were the wrong ones, and finding out 
that you can indeed put the left c/a on the right:), I can share that the 
outer ball joints on Paul's car had about .250 play in them, in fact the 
inner bushings weren't really all that bad.  The play in the outer ball 
joints is what I believe gave the symptoms of warped rotors, when indeed it 
was the whole wheel and tire wobbling during braking.  The parts Paul 
supplied included 5ktq 18mm B/J front C/A, and 5k upper strut bushings, when 
the 200tq 19mm B/J and v8/S4 upper strut bushings (these in *great* shape) 
were on the car.  This was a *huge* risk (on the improper B/J), since the 
pinch bolt on a 18mm B/J will allow the joint to exit the upright.  Make sure 
you get the right parts, this could've been ugly.  That said, interesting 
that the right and left C/A's can be installed backwards, I never thought 
that possible.  Learn something new everyday...  If you have 130k on the 
original SB bushings Bernie, do them, you'll notice a huge difference.  
Absolute the *best* 60bux you'll ever spend.
>  
>  When you free up the tie rod ends, take them off the rods and lube the
>  threads and the taper clamp washer with waterproof grease.  You'll never
>  have the problem again.

Not my experience Bernie.  The problem with the tie rods is usually the 
monkey lads, but audi shares some of the blame as well.  The inner threaded 
coller is aluminum, the nuts, clamp washer and both ends of the tie rod is 
steel.  Add a bit of salt...  I've tried grease, antiseize etc, and still 
find that the tie rods stick. Heat and patience is the best remedy, IME.  
That said, I believe it was the rear toe adjustment that was the problem in 
this case.
  
>  All brake rotors tend to wear true so, short of a major thermal trama, well
>  used rotors are better performers than new or newly machined.
>  
>  Bernie

Agreed.  I personally like the UFO's when they are working, when they aren't, 
the price of rotors is a source of "major thermal trauma" to the guy needing 
to replace them.

HTH

Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ Performance Tuning
Chicago