200q20v still not running update and call for 20vt experts

[Mihnea Cotet]

>
>First of all - a Hall sensor fault is usually crank-cam
>misalignment.  It's a prime symptom of
>the timing belt jumping a tooth or (worst case) the harmonic damper
>slipping on the crank.
>The RPM sensor fault code tends to confirm this suspicion.

Partially right on this one Phil! I stronlgly suspect that I had these
codes because of 3 broken teeth on the dist gear...it did still turn and
this is why I had eliminated this possibility before removing it...


>Usual way - grind off the shear bolt head, take off the cover, undo the
>clamp and pull.
>
> > Do I need to pull the IM?
>
>Yes.
>
> > Can't it be done otherwise?
>
>No.

Huh, I did it with the IM in place, took a chisel and a large hammer and
first bent then took off the retaining plate, then I removed the "mushroom
bolt"  and finally removed the dist. Tadaaaa! 3 broken teeth as said earlier!


>I hope those are the least of your problems.  Over the last few months
>I've seen five cases of
>Hall sender codes appearing - one was a bad immobiliser installation, four
>have been
>monumental timing outages - three were spun harmonic dampers and one a
>failed crank oil seal.

I'll check that later when I find a replacement dist or gear....

>Oddly, only two completely wrecked heads.  However, with a 20V, this
>latter option isn't
>remotely funny.
>
>One comment from an email last week - the 20V distributor arm is cemented
>to the shaft.
>Remove it by crushing it with a vast pair of Visegrips or similar.  Do not
>attempt to lever it
>off against the wall of the distributor - you will bend the shaft and
>scrap the distributor.

Okay, thanks for the info...I knew it was cemented and tried to gently
remove it but to no avail so I'll crush it later!


Thanks again for your help!


Mihnea