update on problems/codes
Phil Rose
pjrose at frontiernet.net
Tue May 21 13:22:00 EDT 2002
>Phil Rose wrote:
>
>> Also I assume you've
>> double-checked all hoses and hose clamps, since the "bucking" symptom
>> you mentioned is possibly from fuel cut-off caused by a hose "burp".
>
>That's an interesting theory. How do you check hoses and clamps, other
>than visually?
Well, the glib answer is to keep tightening all clamps 'till the
problem goes away. :-)
As to non-visual checks for leaks and splits: Brett --a couple of
years ago-- had decribed a device he put together for measuring
intake-pressure leakage. I've been meaning to make something similar
since it can save a lot of time hunting for problem spots. Involves
simple some plumbing inserted at the entrance to the turbo intake
hose. Of course you still need to track down the location(s) of the
problem (audible hissing?) Brett, perhaps you can repost that?
My "method" is just to tediously verify that every one of the intake
system clamps--especially ones that I or others have fiddled with
recently-- require "significant" tightening torque. I think boost
problems will typically be from a rather loose clamp--not one that
requires considerable effort to tighten further. And it's easy to
overlook some "little fellers" like the hard-to-reach 1" clamp below
the idle stabilizer valve.
I once had the "burp" problem, which turned out to be the big clamp
at the throttle body. I had inadvertantly left it still needing one
or two full turns (*easy* ones) to snug up. I think it's useful to
get a "feel" for snugness by using a direct driver on the clamp
screw--if possible. Using a ratchet handle is convenient and
generates more torque, but you have to be rather careful not to
overtighten (break?), although usually the only damage will be to the
clamp itself, which is not a big deal, unless you can't locate a
replacement.
Phil
--
Phil Rose Rochester, NY USA
'91 200q (130 Kmiles, Lago blue)
'91 200q (57 Kmiles, Tornado red)
mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net
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