update on problems/codes

Mike Miller mikemilr at blackfoot.net
Tue May 21 11:50:02 EDT 2002


Here is the leak tester I made several yrs ago - works great - about $7 to
build as I recall. Pressurize to 20 psi max. I've posted this serveral
times. I'd loan it out but shipping would likely cost more than the tester.

http://www.blackfoot.net/~hlm5860/Tester.html

mike

----- Original Message -----
From: Phil Rose <pjrose at frontiernet.net>
To: Dan Simoes <dans at audifans.com>
Cc: 200q20V mailing list <200q20v at audifans.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: update on problems/codes


> >Phil Rose wrote:
> >
> >>  Also I assume you've
> >>  double-checked all hoses and hose clamps, since the "bucking" symptom
> >>  you mentioned is possibly from fuel cut-off caused by a hose "burp".
> >
> >That's an interesting theory.  How do you check hoses and clamps, other
> >than visually?
>
> Well, the glib answer is to keep tightening all clamps 'till the
> problem goes away. :-)
>
> As to non-visual checks for leaks and splits: Brett --a couple of
> years ago-- had decribed a device he put together for measuring
> intake-pressure leakage. I've been meaning to make something similar
> since it can save a lot of time hunting for problem spots. Involves
> simple some plumbing inserted at the entrance to the turbo intake
> hose. Of course you still need to track down the location(s) of the
> problem (audible hissing?) Brett, perhaps you can repost that?
>
> My "method" is just to tediously verify that every one of the intake
> system clamps--especially ones that I or others have fiddled with
> recently-- require "significant" tightening torque. I think boost
> problems will typically be from a rather loose clamp--not one that
> requires considerable effort to tighten further. And it's easy to
> overlook some "little fellers" like the hard-to-reach 1" clamp below
> the idle stabilizer valve.
>
> I once had the "burp" problem, which turned out to be the big clamp
> at the throttle body. I had inadvertantly left it still needing one
> or two full turns (*easy* ones) to  snug up. I think it's useful to
> get a "feel" for snugness by using a direct driver on the clamp
> screw--if possible. Using a ratchet handle is convenient and
> generates more torque, but you have to be rather careful not to
> overtighten (break?), although usually the only damage will be to the
> clamp itself, which is not a big deal, unless you can't locate a
> replacement.
>
> Phil
> --
>
> Phil Rose Rochester, NY USA
> '91 200q (130 Kmiles, Lago blue)
> '91 200q   (57 Kmiles, Tornado red)
> mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net
>
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