Help - The Bomb

[Phil Rose]

At 7:59 PM +0200 9/4/03, Richard Tanimura wrote:
>Phil,
>
>Your questioning my procedure is justifiable but as I pointed out to you in
>a private post, the other plugs changed using the same technique do not
>leak.

In fact, I did fail to recognize from your post that it was the very
_same_ cap needing re-sealing each time. But yes, if that was the
case I agree it would point to something other than tightening
technique. Inability to tighten to a reliable reference (torque) does
still need to be considered as a possible cause of leakage, but I
suspect that insufficient tightening is unlikely--especially after
several tries.  I did mention o-ring lubrication, too, didn't I?

>  And you are certainly free to your opinions about why I do thing my
>way. Frankly I wonder myself sometimes why I do things the way I do. But
>that doesn't help me much.

Sorry if you took offense at my comment. It was really just a little
"barb" aimed at Bernie, not you. However I believe it _is_ hard to
justify a _preference_ for a screwdriver/chisel alternative to the
simple, inexpensive socket recommended in the official shop manual.
Especially if the "alternative" damages caps and/or the job turns out
less than 100% successful.

>I did find the suggestions made by Chuck and Bernie to be constructive and
>helpful. Thanks nonetheless for your input.

Sorry that you found my suggestions neither constructive nor helpful.

Phil


>R
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: 200q20v-admin at audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin at audifans.com]On
>Behalf Of Phil Rose
>Sent: den 4 september 2003 17:51
>To: Bernie Benz
>Cc: 200q20V mailing list
>Subject: Re: Help - The Bomb
>
>
>At 8:13 AM -0700 9/4/03, Bernie Benz wrote:
>>
>>Phil, IMO there is absolutely no tech reason that any specific torque need
>>be applied to these cyl. heads.  They screw into a flat metal to metal
>>interface and can move no farther, this position leaves the correct squeeze
>>on the O-ring.  A screw driver can easily achieve this metal to metal
>>contact and no further torque is needed.  Thus, a drag link socket is not
>>needed for installation nor for removal, as they can easily be removed with
>>a chisel if not with a screw driver.
>
>Bernie,
>For one thing, using the drag-link socket certainly makes removal of
>the caps less likley to create damage--especially if they had
>previously been tightened to specs. Yes, I agree it's probably not
>necessary to go all the way to the "specified" torque, except that
>doing so provides a reliable means to know if adequate tightness was
>actually achieved (again, without damaging the caps).  When someone
>(e.g.,  Rich) has had do re-do the job several time over because of
>leaks, there's reason to suspect all aspects of his
>procedure--including the tightening torque used. Do it with a
>drag-link and a torque wrench removes all doubts about _that_ aspect
>of the job.
>
>IMO, there's scant reason other than an emergency repair (or extreme
>poverty/cheapness) to _not_ use the drag-link method and a torque
>wrench.  I'll stick to doing (and recommending) my way.
>
>Phil
>--
>
>Phil Rose
>Rochester, NY
>mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net
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--

Phil Rose
Rochester, NY
mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net