crankcase breather setup

[Kenneth Keith]

I put some feelers out to see if I can find a better deal than the
$151.17 for the OEM hose here:
http://www.worldimpex.com/parts/genuine-part-vent-hose_74874.html

For a homebrew setup, I'm thinking of using one of these inline with
the factory circuit, and along with this adapter to the crankcase
port.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/hboilbreather.php
http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info.php?products_id=254

That would seem to keep things closed loop to burn the vapors, but do
a better job separating the oil from the air than the factory hose.
To drain back to the crankcase, it might an option to use the OEM
metal pipe for the 7A since it has a little side port.  I'm not sure
if it would work correctly though if the drainback port is open to the
main breather circuit.

I didn't record the part numbers to the molded hoses I used from the
auto parts store for other applications.  I had that setup on a 3B
motor that I sold and the buyer tossed the parts.  I couldn't find a
match this time around at the stores.  The main piece I'm looking for
is the diameter transition piece.  I might see how much the 10v
version is and use that hose for the transition section.

Kenneth

On 7/16/07, Bernie Benz <b.benz at charter.net> wrote:
>
> On Jul 15, 2007, at 11:23 PM, Kenneth Keith wrote:
>
>  >snip<
> >
> > I recall that Bernie Benz has fashioned a homebrew breather hose by
> > cementing one hose inside another, and it's also been suggested that
> > the closed loop system be scrapped in favor of a breather tank that
> > vents to atmosphere to keep the oil vapors out of the combustion
> > chamber (which acts like a decrease in octane).
>
> That radiator hose adaptation is still running. Best to burn the blow
> by gasses. The breather tank is/should be a liquid seperator that
> drains back into the crankcase.
>
> Bernie