loosening suspension adjusters

[christopher locke]

I wouldn't put a torch to forged or hardened parts, a heat zone is created that weakens the part.  If it's a part that keeps pavement between me and the guardrail I'm all for keeping it as strong as possible.

I've not found a rusted part that kroil couldn't penetrate.  After that, two large pipe wrenches, yes pipe wrenches, the teeth grip the parts and won't slip off the rusted round hex portions of the tie rod ends.  I used a file to clean up the teeth marks before never-seizing them and putting them back in, but more recently I just got new tie rods (and bushings and all the other requisite suspension parts) all the way round both cars so I could get a real alignment done.

I also just read Bernie's suggestion about rubber tubing, what a great idea, too bad I didn't think of it before the alignment...  My hindsight is 20/20, yours?

hth

Chris
91 2C20VTQW
91 2C20VTQ

On Jun 1, 2009, at 1:04 PM, Kneale Brownson wrote:

> What's the secret to getting adjusters loose on the front and rear
> suspensions of a 200q20v so I can get an alignment done?
>
> Do the stop nuts turn "normal" as in ccw to loosen, etc.?
>
> Does Kroil work for overcoming several years of rusting?