loosening suspension adjusters

[kneale at coslink.net]

Well, I discovered during my efforts to get the front ones loosened that
one side had a bad tie rod end and both have bad bushings at the inner end
and both rears have rotted boots.  I have a good rear set that came in a
box of new and used parts I bought several years ago, so I'm considering
the $50-apiece front tie rod assemblies from Autohausaz.



Original Message:
-----------------
From: christopher locke c.locke at snet.net
Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 14:45:03 -0700 (PDT)
To: 200q20v at audifans.com
Subject: loosening suspension adjusters


I wouldn't put a torch to forged or hardened parts, a heat zone is created
that weakens the part.  If it's a part that keeps pavement between me and
the guardrail I'm all for keeping it as strong as possible.

I've not found a rusted part that kroil couldn't penetrate.  After that,
two large pipe wrenches, yes pipe wrenches, the teeth grip the parts and
won't slip off the rusted round hex portions of the tie rod ends.  I used a
file to clean up the teeth marks before never-seizing them and putting them
back in, but more recently I just got new tie rods (and bushings and all
the other requisite suspension parts) all the way round both cars so I
could get a real alignment done.

I also just read Bernie's suggestion about rubber tubing, what a great
idea, too bad I didn't think of it before the alignment...  My hindsight is
20/20, yours?

hth

Chris
91 2C20VTQW
91 2C20VTQ

On Jun 1, 2009, at 1:04 PM, Kneale Brownson wrote:

> What's the secret to getting adjusters loose on the front and rear
> suspensions of a 200q20v so I can get an alignment done?
>
> Do the stop nuts turn "normal" as in ccw to loosen, etc.?
>
> Does Kroil work for overcoming several years of rusting?
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