Brake line questions

[Tony Hoffman]

Phil, that's great info on the seal part #. That is one thing I hadn't found
yet.

On the rebuilt calipers, I've not had one yet that was taken completely
apart, i.e, the parking brake mechanism, and rebuilt correctly. That's the
main reason why I do them myself.

Also, if the pads are wearing unevenly check the sliders and boots to ensure
they are sliding freely.

Tony

On Tue, Jun 28, 2011 at 3:10 PM, Phil Rose <pjrose at frontiernet.net> wrote:

> One of the rare times I agree with Bernie (when he chants his DFWAB
> mantra).
>
> If your "sticky" caliper symptom is that the rear brakes are wearing the
> pads unevenly and/or won't run free when you release the hand brake...then
> the first place I'd consider "fixing" (i.e.,  replacing) is the hand brake
> cables--especially if they're original or more than 5 or 6 years old. But if
> you can determine that the cables are good and are not the source of the
> "sticking", then you do have an internal caliper problem which requires
> caliper disassembly and overhaul.
>
> I've done it and it's a bear of a job just to manipulate the internal parts
> and re-assemble correctly (and if you can get the needed parts--including a
> new "oil" seal for the shaft of the handbrake lever). [hint: NAPA p/n 6405
> (16x24x7) from Chicago Rawhide]. Corrosion of the HB lever shaft is
> generally at the root of sticking rear calipers. So a good cleaning up with
> fine emory cloth will probably be needed.
>
> Of course Bernie might scratch his head and respond "Corrosion? Never heard
> of that. How does that happen?"
>
> My usual response is, "Easy. Just live somewhere other than Nevada." ;-)
>
> Phil
>
> P.S. If you don't enjoy doing this kind of thing  and/or have something
> better to do with the time (perhaps a few hours per caliper to rebuild); you
> might consider buying rebuilt calipers. Of course that's somewhat of a
> crapshoot, too, depending on source.