Re: cruise control stopped working

[quikqtr@yahoo.com]

A much faster & easier way to check the CC vac system is by squeezing the vac servo with your left hand & then pinching off the vac line to the pump with needle nose pliers using your right hand, release the servo. If the servo stays in place until you release the pliers there are no leaks...
Using process of elimination to narrow leaks down you can also pinch off sections of line away from the servo including the line going into the driver's footwell etc...

Later, Randy

P.S.: I have run into bad pumps (usually weak operation esp. in cold weather) as well as bad control units & Oxidized electrical connections in the switch...


----- Reply message -----
From: "Tony Hoffman" <auditony at gmail.com>
Date: Thu, Jun 7, 2012 6:26 am
Subject: cruise control stopped working
To: "200q 20v" <a200q20v at gmail.com>
Cc: <200q20v at audifans.com>


I've fixed at least twenty of these older car's cc systems (all the same on
VAG pre throttle-by-wire). Here's what I've found. It's never been the
pump. About 95% of the time it's either leaking vacuum lines, or
leaking/out of adjustment switches. The switch defaults to vac dump/open
contacts if it's not being pushed in, which is only at pedal rest. So,
climb under there and make 100% sure they are being pushed in as far as
necessary. You can eliminate the vac portion for testing simply by
disconnecting them from the "T" right by the brake master cylinder, and
blocking that line off that goes through the firewall.

The only time I've ever had anything else was on a 5000TQ, it was an
intermittent stalk. Took it apart, cleaned the contacts, and that fixed the
issue.

HTH,
Tony



On Wed, Jun 6, 2012 at 6:04 PM, 200q 20v <a200q20v at gmail.com> wrote:

> Are there any diagnostic instructions? SJM site mentions vacuum
> switches only. Mine are in place and appear to work
>
>
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