cruise control stopped working

[PeterBergin at aol.com]

I tried to fix mine along time ago, used to work intermittency than  never. 
 Found the pump, put electrics to it and it drew vacuum.  Used  a vacuum 
pump on the rest of the system, everything held.  Mine was  probably the 
column switch.  However one time when I pulled the dash out  and re soldered some 
bad grounds the cruise worked for a few months, don't know  why.
 
PS has to replace the CC air pump in the dash one time, all day PITA!
 
Pete
91 Avant, new happy owner last year.
02 S6
 
 
In a message dated 6/7/2012 7:57:13 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
quikqtr at yahoo.com writes:

A much  faster & easier way to check the CC vac system is by squeezing the 
vac  servo with your left hand & then pinching off the vac line to the pump  
with needle nose pliers using your right hand, release the servo. If the 
servo  stays in place until you release the pliers there are no leaks...
Using  process of elimination to narrow leaks down you can also pinch off 
sections of  line away from the servo including the line going into the 
driver's footwell  etc...

Later, Randy

P.S.: I have run into bad pumps (usually  weak operation esp. in cold 
weather) as well as bad control units &  Oxidized electrical connections in the 
switch...


----- Reply  message -----
From: "Tony Hoffman" <auditony at gmail.com>
Date: Thu,  Jun 7, 2012 6:26 am
Subject: cruise control stopped working
To: "200q  20v" <a200q20v at gmail.com>
Cc:  <200q20v at audifans.com>


I've fixed at least twenty of these  older car's cc systems (all the same on
VAG pre throttle-by-wire). Here's  what I've found. It's never been the
pump. About 95% of the time it's  either leaking vacuum lines, or
leaking/out of adjustment switches. The  switch defaults to vac dump/open
contacts if it's not being pushed in,  which is only at pedal rest. So,
climb under there and make 100% sure they  are being pushed in as far as
necessary. You can eliminate the vac portion  for testing simply by
disconnecting them from the "T" right by the brake  master cylinder, and
blocking that line off that goes through the  firewall.

The only time I've ever had anything else was on a 5000TQ, it  was an
intermittent stalk. Took it apart, cleaned the contacts, and that  fixed the
issue.

HTH,
Tony



On Wed, Jun 6, 2012 at  6:04 PM, 200q 20v <a200q20v at gmail.com> wrote:

> Are there any  diagnostic instructions? SJM site mentions vacuum
> switches only. Mine  are in place and appear to  work
>
>
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