Brake Servo return hose

[Jay Kempf]

Hello all,

I fixed the brake servo return with a 12" Euro brake line from NAPA and 
a little hose and a couple clamps. Stopped just short of bleeding the 
brakes cause I ran out of time today. No fluid would go into the master 
cylinder from the reservoir like a normal system which surprised me so 
no pedal. I'll fill the master through the side ports and bleed 
tomorrow. Those pesky orifice plates must be air locking the thing. Made 
me think the new used master was bad at first. The master is pretty easy 
to change on these cars.

My good used booster had a shorter pushrod on the front of it than the 
one I took out which had me scratching my head for a bit, that and how 
to get at the 4th nut not being anywhere you can actually see it. Got 
the nut with some wobbly extensions blind through a hole in the pedal 
cluster housing after I figured it out. We made an extension for the 
booster pushrod with a coupling nut and metric stud and were able to 
adjust it to the same dimensions as the existing one. Are the automatics 
different than the manual 200s as far as the booster pushrod length? 
Just curious.

Bernie, I'll try to crack the tie rod ends and test your theory. One I 
did recently. The other one may be from 1991!

0800
From: Bernie Benz <b.benz at charter.net>
To: jkempf at madriver.com
Cc: Audi Fans <200q20v at audifans.com>
Subject: Re: Brake servo return hose
Message-ID: <8E621187-59D7-41DC-8A18-1FD18E10B68E at charter.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

Jay,
?brake servo return hose? You mean the 8? hose to the hyd reservoir with the 90deg bend fitting into the top of the brake servo? Pretty simple hose replacement, under no pressure. Don?t bother removing the fittiing, just put the new hose on it.

Tie rod end toe adjustments frozen up, ball joints still good. Years ago I torched mine to get them out, greased them and added a soft hose boot on each to keep the water out. Been fine since.

Bernie