200q20v Digest, Vol 136, Issue 2

[Kneale Brownson]

Most likely warpage of the MC body from excess heat under the hood. A 
common 200q20v problem.  To diagnose for sure, drive till it happens 
again and then pour cold water over the MC to see if it lets loose.

On 7/13/2015 1:01 PM, Jay Kempf wrote:
> Sounds like an internal booster leak to me. When the orings and seals 
> bypass internally the hydraulic pressure will be put on when you don't 
> want or need it. I have had vacuum boosters do that but never the 
> hydraulic one myself but that is the symptom. Car heats up or just 
> time and the pressure leak slowly starts putting the brakes on. Not 
> normally enough for a lockup but enough to notice the drag at highway 
> speeds and of course when you are standing still on an incline and 
> release the brakes and the car doesn't release.
>
> The way to check if it is one wheel or all is to catch it doing it and 
> immediately start jacking corners or lift the whole car quickly and 
> see if all are sticky or just one. If it is a single wheel normally 
> heat and smell will tell you which corner.
>
>
> jfk
>
> front brakes stuck on. It does sound like the mc. Keep cold on hand to 
> pour on the mc to see if it frees up the brake. Sent from my iPhone
>>> On Jul 13, 2015, at 12:01 AM, ybk at dongames.net wrote:
>>>
>>> After driving for about 20 minutes on a freeway brakes start to 
>>> drag. The brake pedal play diminishes to virtually zero. It is not a 
>>> hard lock up but pretty noticeable. Fortunately both times it 
>>> happens very close to the end of the tip. After several hours it is 
>>> all back to normal. All of this started after replacing rear 
>>> calipers and changing brake fluid.
>>>
>>> Is this a master cylinder acting up or something else?
>>>
>>> Eugene.
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>
>
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