[A4] Change brakes
Scott Simmons
indischrot at gmail.com
Wed Oct 1 20:43:37 PDT 2008
Meh, pass. This is the first car I've owned that's had solid rotors.
Maybe it's just stigma.
My rear pads are getting low (probably down to 25-30%) and I'm worrying
about that job. Not because of the pads, but because at 144k... pads...
rotors... calipers... hoses... Last summer I did that job on my V8q
and it ran me about $300 or so in parts. Maybe just pads this fall and
full job next time..................
~Scott S.
richard valasek wrote:
> Yes--2000-2002 S4. You wil need the discs, calipers, pad carriers and
> the larger backing plates. Everything bolts right up without any
> mods. You may be able to find the calipers and carriers at a wrecker
> but they may need to be rebuilt. ECS Tuning has a complete kit, but
> it's around $900.00. I have them on my car.
>
> Richard
> 98 A4 1.8tq
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Simmons" <indischrot at gmail.com>
> To: "Richard Hurt" <rnhurt at gmail.com>
> Cc: <a4 at audifans.com>; "Jonathan" <jhhummel at bigpond.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 9:58 AM
> Subject: Re: [A4] Change brakes
>
>
>> I was going to mention the rotation of the cylinder..... but OP
>> mentioned only the front brakes being done.
>>
>> That being said..... I know the rear disc is solid.. are there any
>> plug-and-play vented disc options?
>>
>> ~Scott S.
>>
>> Richard Hurt wrote:
>>
>>> Nick,
>>>
>>> We didn't have the special tool, so we just carefully used a large set
>>> of pliers to gently rotate the piston being careful to not score them
>>> below the seal line. The special tool would have been a whole lot
>>> easier though. :/
>>>
>>> Later...
>>> Richard
>>>
>>> On Wed, Oct 1, 2008 at 12:51 PM, Nicholas Stock <nickstock at gmail.com
>>> <mailto:nickstock at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>> You'll need a special tool to do the rear brakes if it's anything
>>> like my
>>> old B5 1.8T ...as the rear brake pistons needs to be rotated to
>>> push them in
>>> to install new pads. Other than that, you might want to get hold of
>>> a pressurizing bleeder so you can bleed all four calipers by
>>> yourself
>>> (instead of asking a friend to pump the pedal for you!)
>>> The front discs are held on by the wheel nuts and should come off
>>> easily.
>>> The rears may need a little more 'encouragement' with a mallet to
>>> come off
>>> the hub.
>>>
>>> Best of luck!
>>>
>>> Cheers, Nick
>>>
>>> On Wed, Oct 1, 2008 at 9:14 AM, Scott Simmons
>>> <indischrot at gmail.com <mailto:indischrot at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>> > No tricks, really. If you're you gonig to do the fluid, plan on
>>> doing
>>> > all four calipers. Other than that, keep in mind that it takes
>>> about
>>> > 500 miles for the brake friction coefficient to really .. uh..
>>> > maximize. In other words, your braking capabilities are
>>> reduced for
>>> > awhile after you put on new pads and rotors.
>>> >
>>> > ~Scott S.
>>> >
>>> > Jonathan wrote:
>>> >
>>> > >Hi All,
>>> > >
>>> > >I want to change the front brake rotors, pads and fluid on my
>>> 96 A4 2.6V6
>>> > FWD
>>> > >(B5 model 8D chassis). I can get the rotors ($100 each) and
>>> pads ($50 set)
>>> > >from SuperCheap. Just standard stuff I think, is there any pint
>>> getting
>>> > more
>>> > >expensive stuff for normal city driving? (I'm happy to pay for
>>> longevity
>>> > and
>>> > >quality, but don't need the high performance stuff).
>>> > >
>>> > >Is there any special technique for replacing rotors, pads and
>>> brake fluid
>>> > on
>>> > >these cars? Do you just take the wheel off, then undo a few
>>> more blots,
>>> > and
>>> > >the whole thing comes off?
>>> > >
>>> > >cheers
>>> > >
>>> > >Jon
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>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> >
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>>
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