[A4] Change brakes

Scott Simmons indischrot at gmail.com
Wed Oct 1 20:43:37 PDT 2008


Meh, pass.  This is the first car I've owned that's had solid rotors.  
Maybe it's just stigma. 

My rear pads are getting low (probably down to 25-30%) and I'm worrying 
about that job.  Not because of the pads, but because at 144k... pads... 
rotors... calipers... hoses...   Last summer I did that job on my V8q 
and it ran me about $300 or so in parts.  Maybe just pads this fall and 
full job next time..................

~Scott S.

richard valasek wrote:

> Yes--2000-2002 S4.  You wil need the discs, calipers, pad carriers and 
> the larger backing plates.  Everything bolts right up without any 
> mods.  You may be able to find the calipers and carriers at a wrecker 
> but they may need to be rebuilt.  ECS Tuning has a complete kit, but 
> it's around $900.00.  I have them on my car.
>
> Richard
> 98 A4 1.8tq
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Simmons" <indischrot at gmail.com>
> To: "Richard Hurt" <rnhurt at gmail.com>
> Cc: <a4 at audifans.com>; "Jonathan" <jhhummel at bigpond.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 9:58 AM
> Subject: Re: [A4] Change brakes
>
>
>> I was going to mention the rotation of the cylinder..... but OP
>> mentioned only the front brakes being done.
>>
>> That being said..... I know the rear disc is solid.. are there any
>> plug-and-play vented disc options?
>>
>> ~Scott S.
>>
>> Richard Hurt wrote:
>>
>>> Nick,
>>>
>>> We didn't have the special tool, so we just carefully used a large set
>>> of pliers to gently rotate the piston being careful to not score them
>>> below the seal line.  The special tool would have been a whole lot
>>> easier though.  :/
>>>
>>> Later...
>>>   Richard
>>>
>>> On Wed, Oct 1, 2008 at 12:51 PM, Nicholas Stock <nickstock at gmail.com
>>> <mailto:nickstock at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>>     You'll need a special tool to do the rear brakes if it's anything
>>>     like my
>>>     old B5 1.8T ...as the rear brake pistons needs to be rotated to
>>>     push them in
>>>     to install new pads. Other than that, you might want to get hold of
>>>     a pressurizing bleeder so you can bleed all four calipers by 
>>> yourself
>>>     (instead of asking a friend to pump the pedal for you!)
>>>     The front discs are held on by the wheel nuts and should come off
>>>     easily.
>>>     The rears may need a little more 'encouragement' with a mallet to
>>>     come off
>>>     the hub.
>>>
>>>     Best of luck!
>>>
>>>     Cheers, Nick
>>>
>>>     On Wed, Oct 1, 2008 at 9:14 AM, Scott Simmons
>>>     <indischrot at gmail.com <mailto:indischrot at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>>     > No tricks, really.  If you're you gonig to do the fluid, plan on
>>>     doing
>>>     > all four calipers.  Other than that, keep in mind that it takes
>>>     about
>>>     > 500 miles for the brake friction coefficient to really .. uh..
>>>     > maximize.  In other words, your braking capabilities are 
>>> reduced for
>>>     > awhile after you put on new pads and rotors.
>>>     >
>>>     > ~Scott S.
>>>     >
>>>     > Jonathan wrote:
>>>     >
>>>     > >Hi All,
>>>     > >
>>>     > >I want to change the front brake rotors, pads and fluid on my
>>>     96 A4 2.6V6
>>>     > FWD
>>>     > >(B5 model 8D chassis). I can get the rotors ($100 each) and
>>>     pads ($50 set)
>>>     > >from SuperCheap. Just standard stuff I think, is there any pint
>>>     getting
>>>     > more
>>>     > >expensive stuff for normal city driving?  (I'm happy to pay for
>>>     longevity
>>>     > and
>>>     > >quality, but don't need the high performance stuff).
>>>     > >
>>>     > >Is there any special technique for replacing rotors, pads and
>>>     brake fluid
>>>     > on
>>>     > >these cars? Do you just take the wheel off, then undo a few
>>>     more blots,
>>>     > and
>>>     > >the whole thing comes off?
>>>     > >
>>>     > >cheers
>>>     > >
>>>     > >Jon
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>>>     > >
>>>     > >
>>>     >
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>>
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