[Biturbos4] New S4?

[mike]

thanks for that, looks like Keman knows his stuff.

Anyone know if the locking tools are the same as the
NA 12V V6?

Mike

 --- David Kavanagh <audiguy at gmail.com> wrote: 
> For the benefit of all, here is the timing belt
> change info from Keman's post
> ----------------------------
> 
> Ok. First off, the teeth on the timing belt are
> meaningless on the 2.8/2.7L
> engine. Audi knows that belts vary slightly from
> maker to maker, so why let
> the teeth limit the calibration? The cogs on the cam
> are infinitely
> adjustable in relation to the camshafts actual
> position. Once you put the
> new belt on, you SYNC them to be exactly where they
> need to be.
> 
> The cam lock tool (the big huge bar) actually
> /positions/ the camshafts in
> relation to the cam cogs. The cogs are not keyed.
> They can sit on the
> camshaft in any position, but the "washer" with two
> holes in it which you
> keep parallel to the ground? Those /always/ are in
> sync with the cam
> since -they- are notched. Yes, FRICTION holds the
> cam to the cam cog. No
> kidding here. It's always been sufficient and noone
> I know has seen one slip
> so it's a good design and don't worry about it.
> 
> First things first-- time to get the cams in sync.
> 
> 1. Roughly line up the crank/cams so that the
> smaller holes on the cam
> washers are facing towards each other (towards the
> center of the engine) and
> the TDC mark on the crank pulley is at the notch in
> the cam belt cover.
> 
> 2. Remove the crankshaft position sensor down on the
> front drivers side of
> the block and insert the special audi crankshaft
> lock tool (purchaseable at
> your audi dealer). As it threads into the hole the
> crank will get budged a
> little and is now exactly where it needs to be and
> cannot move.
> 
> 3. Take the belt off. I know, this isn't what you
> wanna do but you gotta.
> 
> 4. Take off the bolts that hold the cam cogs on to
> the cams.
> 
> 5. Now, using VAG tool xxxx (or your favorite
> hammer) give the cam cog
> washer (that thing with the holes in it under the
> cam bolt) a few good
> whacks. Act like you're trying to bend it towards
> the engine. One sharp one
> should break it free and it will fall onto the
> ground into the bucket of
> used oil you left there on accident from earleir.
> Don't worry about it now,
> we'll fish it out later. Next put a rag over the cam
> cog and give it a good
> whack on the forward facing edge. It too will fall
> off. If your driveway is
> on a hill make sure to chase after it before it ends
> up on the street.
> Repeat on the other cam.
> 
> 6. Lay the cam cogs back onto the cams and the
> washer/bolts back on, and
> tighten the bolts by hand down to the point where
> the cam cog can rotate
> freely from the camshaft with only minor
> interferance. The cam is tapered.
> The cog should be sitting on the cam rather loosely
> right now for this to
> occur but tight enough that it can't rock much back
> and forth.
> 
> 7. Take the special audi VAG camshaft sync bar tool
> (or your favorite
> substitution) and slide it into the holes of the
> "washer" that's under each
> cam bolt. THIS SYNCS THE CAMSHAFT-- it is critical
> that it locks into the
> camshafts perfectly. It's laying across the engine
> essentially 'connecting'
> the two camshafts to one another and resting
> parallel to the ground. You
> will have to slightly turn one cam to get the bar to
> stick into all four
> holes perfectly and in doing so the cams are now
> perfectly in sync, and the
> crankshaft is still locked and exactly where you
> want it.
> 
> 8. Put the belt back on with this bar still in
> place. Let the cam cogs
> rotate as they need to during this process.
> Remember, they are capable of
> turning, the cams cannot.
> 
> 9. Release the tensioner. Give the belt a few tugs,
> the cogs will turn
> slightly to let the tension complete.
> 
> *** A note about the hydraulic tensioner- compress
> it using a vice NO FASTER
> than 5 minutes. That is you will sit there slowly
> turning the vice at
> sufficient speed that it takes 5 minutes to fully
> compress the piston. Any
> faster and it ruptures internally and you've toasted
> your timing belt
> tensioner. Once it's fully compressed stick a hex
> key or drill bit through
> the holes to get it to lock like you would put a pin
> into a grenade.
> 
> 10. Torque the cam bolts down to spec. 45 ft/lbs if
> memory serves. Do not
> use loc-tite.
> 
> 11. Remove the cam position bar and the crankshaft
> lock tool. Put the CPS
> back in and dress the engine all back up.
> 
> 12. Poof. Yer done. Drink german beer- I suggest
> Gordon Beirsch Pilsner. :)
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 00:33:59 +0000 (GMT), mike
> <mikemk40 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > David
> > 
> > I looked in the archives, lots from Keman but
> couldn't
> > find anything on cambelts..do you have capy?
> > 
> > mike
> > 
> >  --- David Kavanagh <audiguy at gmail.com> wrote:
> > > There is an article by Keman. If you search the
> > > archives, I'm sure you
> > > can find it. It was posted a few months ago and
> it
> > > contains some
> > > really great info! I'm going to keep it handy
> when I
> > > do mine!
> > >
> > >
> > > On Sun, 19 Dec 2004 21:56:05 +0000 (GMT), mike
> > > <mikemk40 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > > never done an S4 (only had it a month) but did
> do
> > > my
> > > > old I5 and have done various others over the
> years
> > > >
> > > > I'd be pleased if you could find the
> instructions
> > > and
> > > > send them to me, (especially the tricks)
> > > >
> > > > I'd always change the WP, idlers etc but
> hadn't
> > > > thought about the 'stat
> > > >
> > > > Cheers
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > --- Grant <gfl1 at optonline.net> wrote:
> > > > > Hard to say about the cambelt.  Have you
> ever
> > > done
> > > > > one before?
> > > > > The S4 is hard to work on - not much space. 
> So
> > > job
> > > > > #1 is removing the
> > > > > front end.
> > > > > The consequences of error when doing the
> cambelt
> > > are
> > > > > very high.
> > > > > While its not rocket science, there are lots
> of
> > > > > little tricks.
> > > > >
> > > > > I paid, happily, to have mine done. 
> Although
> > > not by
> > > > > the dealer.
> > > > >
> > > > > I believe that Kemen posted pretty good
> 
=== message truncated === 


	
	
		
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