[Biturbos4] New S4?

David Kavanagh audiguy at gmail.com
Sun Dec 19 19:39:25 EST 2004


For the benefit of all, here is the timing belt change info from Keman's post
----------------------------

Ok. First off, the teeth on the timing belt are meaningless on the 2.8/2.7L
engine. Audi knows that belts vary slightly from maker to maker, so why let
the teeth limit the calibration? The cogs on the cam are infinitely
adjustable in relation to the camshafts actual position. Once you put the
new belt on, you SYNC them to be exactly where they need to be.

The cam lock tool (the big huge bar) actually /positions/ the camshafts in
relation to the cam cogs. The cogs are not keyed. They can sit on the
camshaft in any position, but the "washer" with two holes in it which you
keep parallel to the ground? Those /always/ are in sync with the cam
since -they- are notched. Yes, FRICTION holds the cam to the cam cog. No
kidding here. It's always been sufficient and noone I know has seen one slip
so it's a good design and don't worry about it.

First things first-- time to get the cams in sync.

1. Roughly line up the crank/cams so that the smaller holes on the cam
washers are facing towards each other (towards the center of the engine) and
the TDC mark on the crank pulley is at the notch in the cam belt cover.

2. Remove the crankshaft position sensor down on the front drivers side of
the block and insert the special audi crankshaft lock tool (purchaseable at
your audi dealer). As it threads into the hole the crank will get budged a
little and is now exactly where it needs to be and cannot move.

3. Take the belt off. I know, this isn't what you wanna do but you gotta.

4. Take off the bolts that hold the cam cogs on to the cams.

5. Now, using VAG tool xxxx (or your favorite hammer) give the cam cog
washer (that thing with the holes in it under the cam bolt) a few good
whacks. Act like you're trying to bend it towards the engine. One sharp one
should break it free and it will fall onto the ground into the bucket of
used oil you left there on accident from earleir. Don't worry about it now,
we'll fish it out later. Next put a rag over the cam cog and give it a good
whack on the forward facing edge. It too will fall off. If your driveway is
on a hill make sure to chase after it before it ends up on the street.
Repeat on the other cam.

6. Lay the cam cogs back onto the cams and the washer/bolts back on, and
tighten the bolts by hand down to the point where the cam cog can rotate
freely from the camshaft with only minor interferance. The cam is tapered.
The cog should be sitting on the cam rather loosely right now for this to
occur but tight enough that it can't rock much back and forth.

7. Take the special audi VAG camshaft sync bar tool (or your favorite
substitution) and slide it into the holes of the "washer" that's under each
cam bolt. THIS SYNCS THE CAMSHAFT-- it is critical that it locks into the
camshafts perfectly. It's laying across the engine essentially 'connecting'
the two camshafts to one another and resting parallel to the ground. You
will have to slightly turn one cam to get the bar to stick into all four
holes perfectly and in doing so the cams are now perfectly in sync, and the
crankshaft is still locked and exactly where you want it.

8. Put the belt back on with this bar still in place. Let the cam cogs
rotate as they need to during this process. Remember, they are capable of
turning, the cams cannot.

9. Release the tensioner. Give the belt a few tugs, the cogs will turn
slightly to let the tension complete.

*** A note about the hydraulic tensioner- compress it using a vice NO FASTER
than 5 minutes. That is you will sit there slowly turning the vice at
sufficient speed that it takes 5 minutes to fully compress the piston. Any
faster and it ruptures internally and you've toasted your timing belt
tensioner. Once it's fully compressed stick a hex key or drill bit through
the holes to get it to lock like you would put a pin into a grenade.

10. Torque the cam bolts down to spec. 45 ft/lbs if memory serves. Do not
use loc-tite.

11. Remove the cam position bar and the crankshaft lock tool. Put the CPS
back in and dress the engine all back up.

12. Poof. Yer done. Drink german beer- I suggest Gordon Beirsch Pilsner. :)



On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 00:33:59 +0000 (GMT), mike <mikemk40 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> David
> 
> I looked in the archives, lots from Keman but couldn't
> find anything on cambelts..do you have capy?
> 
> mike
> 
>  --- David Kavanagh <audiguy at gmail.com> wrote:
> > There is an article by Keman. If you search the
> > archives, I'm sure you
> > can find it. It was posted a few months ago and it
> > contains some
> > really great info! I'm going to keep it handy when I
> > do mine!
> >
> >
> > On Sun, 19 Dec 2004 21:56:05 +0000 (GMT), mike
> > <mikemk40 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > never done an S4 (only had it a month) but did do
> > my
> > > old I5 and have done various others over the years
> > >
> > > I'd be pleased if you could find the instructions
> > and
> > > send them to me, (especially the tricks)
> > >
> > > I'd always change the WP, idlers etc but hadn't
> > > thought about the 'stat
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > --- Grant <gfl1 at optonline.net> wrote:
> > > > Hard to say about the cambelt.  Have you ever
> > done
> > > > one before?
> > > > The S4 is hard to work on - not much space.  So
> > job
> > > > #1 is removing the
> > > > front end.
> > > > The consequences of error when doing the cambelt
> > are
> > > > very high.
> > > > While its not rocket science, there are lots of
> > > > little tricks.
> > > >
> > > > I paid, happily, to have mine done.  Although
> > not by
> > > > the dealer.
> > > >
> > > > I believe that Kemen posted pretty good
> > instructions
> > > > and notes not long
> > > > ago.
> > > > I think I saved them if you need them.
> > > >
> > > > I presume you know the drill about doing the H2O
> > > > pump, tensioner, idler
> > > > pulley,
> > > > and thermostat all at the same time, right?
> > > >
> > > > Grant
> > > > On Dec 19, 2004, at 5:37 AM, mike wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > the 40k & 7.4k are £ (GBP)
> > > > >
> > > > > the rest is miles
> > > > >
> > > > > any views on the cambelt?
> > > > >
> > > > > Cheers
> > > > >
> > > > > mike
> >
> 
>                 
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-- 
'00 A6 biturbo 6-speed
'01 allroad 6-speed


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