[V6-12v] converter "repair"
Damien Gaboury
damien_gaboury at uqac.uquebec.ca
Wed Aug 23 09:41:31 EDT 2000
Since I look at the list, most problems regarding the V6 is related to
acceleration and loss of power. Many, as you, have tried to resolve the
problems by changing some parts, like O2 sensors, ignition wire, fuel filter
and other things, sometime with unconvincing results. On the other hand, I
noticed a gain of power by isolating my MAF. Anyway, my CATs probably need
attention.
Please, could you describe the way you have "cleaned" your Cats.
In order to guide people fixing their problems, could you describe the
conditions under which you had experienced acceleration and loss of power
problems. Some owners have hesitation problems under cold engine operation,
others, as me, have the same problems but only when the engine is hot. Other
have such problems occurring intermittently.
Regards
Damien Gaboury, PhD
Scientifique de recherche
Consortium de Recherche en Exploration Minérale (CONSOREM)
Université du Québec à Chicoutimi
555 Boul. de l'Université, Chicoutimi, Qc, Canada, G7H 2B1
Tél.: 418-545-5011 poste 2270
Fax: 418-545-5012
e-mail: damien_gaboury at uqac.uquebec.ca
Visitez notre site web: http://depcom.uqac.uquebec.ca/consorem
----- Original Message -----
From: Nitz Karl-GKN001 <Karl.Nitz at motorola.com>
To: <v6-12v at audifans.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 4:57 PM
Subject: RE: [V6-12v] converter "repair"
> For Carnivore's sake, and the EPA's...I "cleaned" my converter. It took
> about 8 hours over a weekend, but it would go a lot quicker the second
time
> around.
>
> I didn't need a lift, just a hydraulic jack and jack stands. Cut off the
> old flange bolts at the exhaust end of the converter. CAREFULLY remove
the
> nuts from the flange at the manifold end of the converters. However, if
the
> studs from the exhaust manifold do break, reattach the converter (new or
> "other") using a 2 3/4" flange repair kit from Autozone. Buy 2 for each
> converter and reconnect the converter using one above and one below the
> joint. It'll hold. I chiseled the sheared studs flush with the manifold
> flange face, but if they don't project above the converter flange when
> reassembled, I'd leave them in to help "center" the joint.
>
> Price I found through a local auto parts store was ~$540 for each
converter
> :(
>
> A way to test for a plugged converter before pulling them: remove the
> exhaust test cap -one at a time- on each cylinder bank (light blue colored
> cap on my car) and see if the car runs better when it's removed. If gives
> the exhaust an alternate -if small- escape path.
>
> My total repair cost was around $120 (includes a $93 tow charge to a
repair
> shop that sat on the car for a month...I got fed up, limped the car home
and
> fixed it myself).
>
> Later,
> Karl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jgriff at jgriff.com [mailto:jgriff at jgriff.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 3:42 PM
> To: Karl.Nitz
> Cc: v6-12v at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: [V6-12v] O2 sensors, brake warning lights, powerloss, oil
> leak...
>
>
> On Tue, 22 August 2000, Nitz Karl-GKN001 wrote:
>
> > On the power loss, I replaced the spark plugs, ignition wires, fuel
> filter,
> > and air filter in an effort to get rid of a stumbling during
acceleration.
> > I can honestly say it wasn't until I "fixed" the plugged D/S catalytic
> > convertor that all the hesitation disappeared. The car has a nice
> "rumble"
> > now :)
>
> Did you replace your cat converters with OEM units? Or high-performance
> aftermarket units (if such units exist, that is)? Where did you buy them
and
> how much did you pay? I looked at discountconverter.com, and the OEM units
> are something like over $300 apiece!! Yikes!!
>
> I ask because I also think that I may need to replace a cat or two. I'm
> beginning to feel a bit of sluggishness (even after the new O2 sensors),
> which feels as if the exhaust is restricted. (There are 175k miles on the
> car... so it is probably time for new ones.)
>
> How tough is this to do in a garage, without a lift? Is this something
that
> I can do at home, with ramps and jack-stands? (I have a compressor and air
> tools, so getting the rusty bolts off shouldn't be too tough.)
>
> Or should I buy some high-po units (which aren't direct fit... they are
> generic fit units... DynoMax units... from DiscountConverter.com), and
have
> a good muffler shop custom fit them (by welding in some pipe to fit, for
the
> correct length)?
>
> Too bad these cats don't have nine lives, eh? :-)
>
> Jim
>
>
> Jim Griffin - JGriff at JGriff.com -
> http://www.JGriff.com - http://pobox.com/~jgriff
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