rebuld caliper isn't working properly

[james accordino]

--- Brett Dikeman <quattro at pdikeman.ne.mediaone.net>
wrote:

> Looks like the new rebuilt caliper is hanging as
> well.
> 
> In a different way, though.  Clearly visible, half
> the rotor is 
> rusty, the other half isn't.  

If the rotor is worn (clean)on the inside edge (near
the hat) all the way around, I would say your wheel
bearing is shot.  It lets the hub and rotor lean into
the caliper and pads.  Small arc worn on outside,
large arc on inside.  OTOH if it's worn in skip spots,
then the issue is runout.  Either the hat to hub
mounting is fouled by debris, rust, a burr in the
metal? or the rotor is warped and only contacting the
pads on the "high" spots.  

> from work, the BBS rim was warm to the touch, a sign
> that the caliper 
> is hanging and heating up(again.)

Or that the wheel bearing is shot.  Same symptom. 
With that wheel jacked up it's pretty easy to check
for play.  In/out should be zero.  Grab tire
horizontal and rock, should be zero.  Same if you grab
the top and bottom of the tire and rock it back and
forth.  If there is ANY free play, I think your
bearing is shot.
 
> Since both cables are brand new, and I assume Greg
> Haymann knows how 
> to adjust those cables properly :-), what's left? 
> Only other thing I 
> can think of is a bad MC.

How about the front/rear proportioning valve?  Does
your car have one in the left rear wheel area?  Mine
was really crapped up.  I disconnected the line out
and worked the lever manually while pushing fluid
through under pressure.  The lever wouldn't even move
at first, I had to use a bar to lever on it.  After an
hour and a quart and a half of Valvoline synthetic, it
worked well.  Been fine ever since.  At least on my
car, as Fu*@ed up as the rear cal. were, it just made
sense that the proportioning valve would also be
filled with crap. 

HTH
Jim Accordino