UrS4 Heater Fan Motor Replacement

[Lawrence C Leung]

Sounds about the same time it took me to do my 200's blower motor. Didn't
have to fabricate a tool to lift the box, I just pulled with a help of a
little wooden "pursueder". As for the new motors having little wear in
terms of brushes/commutator, I wonder if the newer motors for the
UrS4/S6/100CS's fit the type 44 blower box, or if not, if the new
brushes/commutator are being used in replacement motors. (my motor
already has about 30 K miles on it, so it's effectively already 1/4 the
way to brush failure if it has the old style brushes). 

LL - NY

On Sun, 17 Dec 2000 22:44:19 -0500 "Fred Munro" <munrof at sympatico.ca>
writes:

>    The brushes and commutator on the old motor show little wear - 
>Bosch
>seems to have fixed the brush wear issue, now they just need to work 
>on
>their bearings.
>
>Fred Munro
>'94 S4 118k km
>
>> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 22:23:13 -0400
>> From: "Martin, Gary G" <MartinGG at aetna.com>
>> To: AUDI S Cars Discussion List <audi-s-cars at lists.boldfish.com>
>> Subject: VENTILATION BLOWER REPLACEMENT
>>
>> Finally replaced my intermittently squealing AC/heater fan this week 
>and
>> maybe what I learned will be of help to someone else.
>> If you are using the Bentley procedure, there are several things you 
>DO
>NOT
>> have to do.
>> You,
>> DO NOT have to remove the blower box.
>> DO NOT have to remove any interior trim, ie. center console, like I 
>did.
>> PITA to get back in, for me at least.
>> DO NOT have to remove coolant lines to heater core.
>>
>> Credit has to be given to a procedure I found on the Q list, 
>modified
>> somewhat.
>>
>> Here we go.
>>
>> Inside car: Remove one bolt each side, which attaches footwell 
>airflow
>piece
>> to center blower box. Near center console on both sides.
>> Outside car. Remove wipers, motor and assembly and 3 covers over A/C 
>and
>> blower box and controls.
>> Remove vacuum hoses and electrical connections that will get in the 
>way of
>> lifting the blower box about 3-4 inches.
>> Remove hold down strap on top of blower box.
>> Remove large rubber  connector between blower box and evaporator 
>box.(Hose
>> clamp on left side, slip over lip on blower box).
>>
>> Now you have to break the box loose from its seal. Unless you are 
>feeling
>> really strong, I think you will need mechanical help.
>> There is a boss on the front of the box to attach a puller to. I 
>made a
>> puller out of a  2x4 inch piece of metal, bent
>> into a hook at one end, and 90degree angle at other end, put two 6"
>threaded
>> rods thru it about an inch apart, attached
>> another piece of metal at the other end. Put a peice of 2x4 on the 
>strut
>> brace, and used a pry bar to lift up on my hook.
>> No problem.
>> Remove housing on blower box that  rubber connector was slipped 
>onto. Two
>> screws  visible on the top, and
>> one on the bottom.  This is a touchy/feely one, but you can get it 
>out,
>and
>> in. (I did). Worst case, it could be broken,
>> as Q list proc said, and this part of housing attached here with 
>contact
>> cement or something. Here is where the motor will come out.
>>
>> Almost there. Motor is held in with a snap ring on the right end. 
>Take
>that
>> off and the washer. Lift, pull and maybe a curse
>> or two, and you can get the blower out of the box.
>>
>> Inside the blower box, there are 3 rubber bumpers, which support 
>the
>motor.
>> These need to be lubricated with petroleum jelly(veener schlipper).
>> In fact, I'm thinkin these little dry bumpers may have been the 
>cause of
>the
>> squealing.
>> Put new motor in. Line up guide lip on end of motor with housing 
>slot and
>> make sure bumpers stay in place.
>> note: I used a magnetic tool to hold the screw for the bottom of 
>the
>> housing, to get it started.
>> Don't forget to attach ALL the connections. Not like I did, when I 
>fould
>the
>> wipers wouldn't work. I took a break after that!
>> Good luck. HTH......Gary 94UrS4......nice and quiet again.
>
>
>