quattro digest, Vol 1 #743 - 19 msgs

[S. Jaworski]

----- Original Message -----
From: <quattro-request at audifans.com>
To: <quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 10:29 PM
Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #743 - 19 msgs


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> than "Re: Contents of quattro digest..."
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>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. 200 Avant springs (e2e)
>    2. Tiptronic and stick (e2e)
>    3. Repair rusted off rear muffler type44 (Jens)
>    4. [Req:] help with rear Girling calipers (Jens)
>    5. Re:heater blower replacement HELP!!!!! (Steve Jensen)
>    6. Re:Should I ???? (Bob)
>    7. Re:[200q20v] heater blower replacement HELP!!!!! (Kneale Brownson)
>    8. Re:[200q20v] heater blower replacement HELP!!!!! (Phil Rose)
>    9. Re:Eurolights, slush and blizzards (James McElroy)
>   10. autocheck woes on  90 200 (Mike Posner)
>   11. Re:[200q20v] heater blower replacement HELP!!!!!
(C1J1Miller at aol.com)
>   12. Re:Should I ???? (Dan Simoes)
>   13. Re:Should I ???? (Bob)
>   14. Re:[200q20v] heater blower replacement HELP!!!!! (Rob Winchell)
>   15. Re:[200q20v] heater blower replacement HELP!!!!! (STEADIRIC at aol.com)
>   16. Re:Info on Wotan AG (Per Lindgren)
>   17. Finally! (Per Lindgren)
>   18. Slow fills at Gas Station on 86 4kq (Leah and David Mueller)
>   19. Re:'89 200 2WD 3 spd Auto Trans Intermittently poor Shifting (shawn)
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 11:41:49 +1300
> Subject: 200 Avant springs
> From: e2e <sam at edgetoedge.co.nz>
> To: quattro list <quattro at audifans.com>
>
> I need new springs in the rear of my 1990 200tq avant. I do NOT want to go
> lower as I get to drive over real roads quite regularly. It seems that I
> will have to get springs made as all aftermarket ones are lowered.
> Q1:specs/dimensions of the stock springs please.
> Q2:BTDT of getting springs made
> Q3:spring rates, what is the stock rate (mine are now very soggy) and
should
> I get them made say 10% stiffer. If I get them made 10% stiffer do they
then
> need to be 10% shorter to maintain the standard ride height? Or is that
the
> whole point of lowered but stiffer aftermarket springs.
> Q4:Just how far off the ground should my wheel arches be anyway(same as
the
> front?)
> --
> Sam Clarkson
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 11:42:42 +1300
> Subject: Tiptronic and stick
> From: e2e <sam at edgetoedge.co.nz>
> To: quattro list <quattro at audifans.com>
>
> The discussion about the merits of tip or stick boxes well I've got both
in
> my early 70's triumph 2500pi.Yes 4 speed with electric overdrive in 3rd
and
> 4th,such a joy to drive and way better than a 5 speed for highway
> cruising,hills,overtaking etc.30 years old too! It makes me wonder why
they
> don't make them today, a tiptronic manual please.
> --
> Sam Clarkson
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 00:08:37 +0100
> From: Jens <lukasdl at gmx.net>
> To: quattrolist <quattro at audifans.com>
> Subject: Repair rusted off rear muffler type44
>
> Hi Listers!
>
> While some unpleasantness stroke me, or rather my Audi 100 Sport during
> the last few days, we (my father and me) came up with what we like to
> think as a nifty way to repair the rear muffler on Audi 100/200 Type44s.
> I don't think it will be useful for owners of a 200 20V, but you might
> want to check out the page of my friend Olli presenting my pics of the
> repair job:
>
http://www.audi100-online.com/Technik/Auspuff_Teil1/body_auspuff_teil1.html
> It is German, but you will understand the pics I am sure :)
> It is really easy and saves you an A full of money, as the muffler still
> is 100% okay, only the stupid hitch corroded off.
> If you have any questions, please contact me.
>
> Bye,
> Jens
>
> http://www.AudiStory.com
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 00:21:18 +0100
> From: Jens <lukasdl at gmx.net>
> To: quattrolist <quattro at audifans.com>
> Subject: [Req:] help with rear Girling calipers
>
> Hi!
>
> One of the "unpleasantnesses" of my last post involve the rear calipers.
> They are from Girling and to have a look at one:
> http://home.germany.net/100-157656/temp/kolben.jpg
> Now, to change the brake pads you have to turn back the piston (you know
> that, I know).
> By applying force and torque at the same time, this is normally no
> problem.
> We have done it often enough (but one slightly different Audi calipers).
> The system is pressureless and the piston can be easily turned and the
> hand brake lever is easily moveable and in the "off" position 100%ly.
> But there won't be more than 30mm (1,181") of opening instead of 40mm
> (10mm for the disc and 2x15 for the pads).
> So, my question: Is this a known problem? Can it be repaired?
> Once again: It still easily turns, but it won't move further inwards.
> If you turn counter-clockwise, the opening will decrease immediately. If
> you turn the right way again, the gap opens again, but in no way will
> get larger than those 30mm!
> Oh, on the calipers are two numbers, but now VW/Audi/VAG ones:
> Girling, once 9352 and then 2619/3
>
> CU
> Jens
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 5
> From: "Steve Jensen" <sjensen at mindspring.com>
> To: <quattro at audifans.com>, "Joshua Van Tol" <josh at spiny.com>
> Subject: Re: heater blower replacement HELP!!!!!
> Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 19:28:42 -0500
>
> > ... The interior ducts won't stop the box from coming loose
> > from the firewall, but will prevent it from moving up far enough to
> > get the fan out.
>
> Not exactly true.  Many on the list, including myself, have replaced the
> motor without having to touch the interior ducts.
>
> YMMV.
>
> -Steve Jensen
> 87 5kcstq
> 87 5kcstqw
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 16:37:36 -0800
> From: Bob <mx at snet.net>
> To: "kevphill at DESPAMmediaone.net" <kevphill at DESPAMmediaone.net>
> CC: "'quattro at audifans.com'" <quattro at audifans.com>
> Subject: Re: Should I ????
>
> I had a ball today. Quattro donuts and all :) I pretty much owned the
roads today.. 14" and not
> plowed.  My 4000Q didnt even know there was snow on the ground! Woo hoo!
>
> Kevin Phillips wrote:
>
> > The kids in the neighbor hood are out on their snow mobiles, should I
join them with the quattro
> > and play too ????
> > 12" and counting.
> >
> > Kevin Phillips
> > Western Massachusetts
> > 1990 200q
> > 1995 900 SET
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 19:48:13 -0500
> To: Phil & Judy Rose <pjrose at frontiernet.net>,
>         "200q20v maillist at audifans" <200q20v at audifans.com>
> From: Kneale Brownson <knotnook at traverse.com>
> Subject: Re: [200q20v] heater blower replacement HELP!!!!!
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
>
> --=======35C01743=======
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed;
x-avg-checked=avg-ok-25212937
>
> When I did my 5Ktq, I used a couple pieces of 1 X 2 Oak a couple feet long
> prying on the lip where the rain diverter anchors down.  I was concerned
> about sticking a long screwdriver through the plastic or breaking the
> plastic with just one pry point.   You have to be careful of the A/C
lines
> and wiring in that neighborhood.  I'd bet that the cold makes the adhesive
> gasket a bunch more difficult to unstick.  I think I used a stiff putty
> knife slid under the gasket where I could get at it, but I' m not
> certain.  I may have just contemplated it.  The prying required a
> significant amount of force (and I weigh over 200 lbs, mostly above the
hips).
>
>
> At 02:46 PM 12/30/2000 -0500, Phil & Judy Rose wrote:
>
> >Anybody out there _not_ watching football today???
> >
> >I'm not. :-(
> >
> >I'm partway through the agony of trying to replace the heater blower in
my
> >'91 200q. I've gotten to the point of trying to  separate the blower box
> >from the firewall, but it seems to be held firmly in place with a pretty
> >damn strong gasket/adhesive. And exactly _where_ can I apply leverage?
> >People talk about using screwdrivers? Huh?
> >
> >Here's the background:
> >The strap around the blower box has been removed.
> >The round duct from the A/C has been pushed into the blower box.
> >I've left the heat-exchanger hoses in place since no heat-exchanger work
is
> >contemplated.
> >I've removed the driver's and passenger interior side panels, but don't
see
> >where I'm supposed to do anything useful (supposedly involving some
> >ductwork?) from within the car.
> >The driver's kick panel hasn't yet been removed, but I wonder if I'll
need
> >to do that-- do I? I remember what a chore that panel was to get free.
> >
> >Anyway, several write-ups (including ones from Al Powell and associates
and
> >Steve Buchholz) lead me to expect that I should be able, with effort,  to
> >loosen the gasketing between the blower box and the firewall, and then by
> >just applying steady  force I'll manage to lever/pull the box completely
> >free. (HOW?) Trouble is I don't see a way to get at the base of the
blower
> >with any tool that could apply leverage (and not damage the aluminum A/C
> >tubing in the process. The only part of the blower-box gasket that seems
to
> >be accessible is along the very top edge. That gasket and its adhesive
> >doesn't seem eager to let go.
> >
> >So, what trick(s) am I missing (never mind steak knives)?  What's the
best
> >tool/way to pry up on the blower box. Using a Wonder Bar was suggested by
a
> >friend, (but mine's gone missing). Is my problem the fact that the
interior
> >duct connections must be pulled free _before_ the blower box is able to
> >loosen at all?
> >
> >Phil
> >
> >
> >Phil Rose                               Rochester, NY
> >'91 200q                                mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net
> >
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >200q20v mailing list
> >200q20v at audifans.com
> >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v
> >
>
> --=======35C01743=======--
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 19:53:20 -0500
> To: C1J1Miller at aol.com
> From: Phil Rose <pjrose at frontiernet.net>
> Subject: Re: [200q20v] heater blower replacement HELP!!!!!
> Cc: 200q20v at audifans.com, quattro at audifans.com
>
> At 5:15 PM -0500 12/30/00, C1J1Miller at aol.com wrote:
>
> >I didn't pull the housing out of the car; think I just used blocks of
wood,
> >etc. and a big prybar to get the housing high enough to pull the fan.
Put in
> >the new one, pushed it all back into place, done.  Took some brute force,
and
> >I did bend the firewall lip a little, but it bent back again.
> >Chris
> >
>
> I finally located and removed the screws that hold the two footwell ducts.
> Also I detached the rubber boot (bellows) from the rear-seat duct.  is
> there any other duct I need to detach?
>
> Now I've gotten the front of the airbox to lift up about 1 or 1.5 inches,
> but the gasket is still pretty firmly attached along the top edge. I
assume
> the _whole_ gasketed circumference needs to be separated so the box will
> pull straight up about 5 or 6 inches (rather than just swing on a "hinge"
> from its rear edge), is that right? The  problem right now seems to be
> getting that top edge of gasketing to let go. I'll try heating with hair
> dryer, etc.
>
> Did you leave the heat exchanger hoses attached? They don't particularly
> help matters, but some people have said they can stay put. Is that right?
>
> Phil
>
>
> Phil Rose
> Rochester, NY
> mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 9
> From: "James McElroy" <jmcelroy at worldpath.net>
> To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> Subject: Re: Eurolights, slush and blizzards
> Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 19:48:22 -0800
>
>     I've had my 87 4000csq for about two years now, and maybe my eyes are
> adjusting to those poor excuse for headlights Audi, or the D.O.T. , stuck
us
> with.
>     One very dark morning, I was driving south on N.H. Rt 106 at 4:00 AM,
> and I could see a deer up ahead on the edge of the road. I was doing about
> 70 mph and decided to brake just incase the deer decided to cross in front
> of me. Sure enough he did, and without locking the brakes up I came to a
> complete stop, and so did the deer. Right dead center, 10 feet away, in
> front of the car. No GORE from the BUSH.
>
> Jim McElroy
>
>
>
>
> > Message: 9
> > Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 15:22:27 -0500
> > To: avim at pacbell.net
> > From: "Doyt W. Echelberger" <Doyt at nwonline.net>
> > Subject: RE: Eurolights, slush and blizzards
> > Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> >
> > Not to worry, Avi. The challenge of driving with the stock lights for
the
> > past few years has triggered a genetic mutation in my vision, and I can
> now
> > get around in almost total darkness.  The human genome is capable of
many
> > surprises.
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 10
> From: "Mike Posner" <posne at cts.com>
> To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> Subject: autocheck woes on  90 200
> Date: Sat, 9 Dec 2000 00:35:08 -0800
>
> Constant warning light for coolant level/temperature. Temp and coolant are
> fine.
> Prior post by Cobram indicates his problem was not fixed via replacement
of
> reservoir,
>
> wiring check, multifunction switch. He finally replaced the board from a
na
> car, fixwd the
> problem but had to sacrifice accurate boost measurement.  Has anyone fixed
> this problem at the component level, i.e. resoldering , new caps or
> resistors?  This is an expensive fix at the dealer, $700-$1,000 as I
recall.
> I think the lower price might be for a rebuilt unit suggesting
> that some one knows how to repair thes board.   TIA   Mike Posner,
> Encinitas.
>
> 90 200
> 83 coupe
> 89 Pontiac TTA
> 84 Volvo ICT 5 speed
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 11
> From: C1J1Miller at aol.com
> Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 19:54:22 EST
> Subject: Re: [200q20v] heater blower replacement HELP!!!!!
> To: pjrose at frontiernet.net
> CC: 200q20v at audifans.com, quattro at audifans.com
>
> In a message dated 12/30/00 7:47:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> pjrose at frontiernet.net writes:
>
> > I finally located and removed the screws that hold the two footwell
ducts.
> >  Also I detached the rubber boot (bellows) from the rear-seat duct.  is
> >  there any other duct I need to detach?
>
> I was lazy; didn't do anything on the interior of the car.
>
>
> >
> >  Now I've gotten the front of the airbox to lift up about 1 or 1.5
inches,
> >  but the gasket is still pretty firmly attached along the top edge. I
assume
> >  the _whole_ gasketed circumference needs to be separated so the box
will
> >  pull straight up about 5 or 6 inches (rather than just swing on a
"hinge"
> >  from its rear edge), is that right? The  problem right now seems to be
> >  getting that top edge of gasketing to let go. I'll try heating with
hair
> >  dryer, etc.
> >
> >  Did you leave the heat exchanger hoses attached? They don't
particularly
> >  help matters, but some people have said they can stay put. Is that
right?
> >
> >  Phil
> >
>
> As I recall, the first 1 to 1.5 inches wasn't that difficult; the next
inch
> or two took some persuasion, and some applied force over time...
>
> I strongly considered cutting the plastic ("steak knife" technique) but
> didn't resort to it; if you do, it is probably fairly easy to re-seal the
cut
> portion again.
>
> A second person would help; I used some very large screwdrivers as wedges;
> pry up, insert a wedge, pry somewhere else, insert a wedge, etc.
> Chris
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 20:27:35 -0500
> From: Dan Simoes <dans at audifans.com>
> To: "kevphill at DESPAMmediaone.net" <kevphill at DESPAMmediaone.net>
> CC: "'quattro at audifans.com'" <quattro at audifans.com>
> Subject: Re: Should I ????
>
> No.  Apparently someone here rode one straight into a car.
> I saw a guy riding in town - cop put on his lights, but didn't even
> bother chasing as the guy accelerated from 20 to ~50mph in an instant.
> The acceleration was mindboggling.
>
> Kevin Phillips wrote:
> >
> > The kids in the neighbor hood are out on their snow mobiles, should I
join them with the quattro
> > and play too ????
> > 12" and counting.
> >
> > Kevin Phillips
> > Western Massachusetts
> > 1990 200q
> > 1995 900 SET
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 17:36:18 -0800
> From: Bob <mx at snet.net>
> To: Dan Simoes <dans at audifans.com>
> CC: "kevphill at DESPAMmediaone.net" <kevphill at DESPAMmediaone.net>,
>         "'quattro at audifans.com'" <quattro at audifans.com>
> Subject: Re: Should I ????
>
> Today while bombing around the 'closed' roads, there was a local constable
who wasnt amused with me
> doing a Hannu Mikola turn... He turned around only to promptly get stuck!
Dont worry, I did my civic
> duty...and kept going!   :)
> Bob
>
> Dan Simoes wrote:
>
> > No.  Apparently someone here rode one straight into a car.
> > I saw a guy riding in town - cop put on his lights, but didn't even
> > bother chasing as the guy accelerated from 20 to ~50mph in an instant.
> > The acceleration was mindboggling.
> >
> > Kevin Phillips wrote:
> > >
> > > The kids in the neighbor hood are out on their snow mobiles, should I
join them with the quattro
> > > and play too ????
> > > 12" and counting.
> > >
> > > Kevin Phillips
> > > Western Massachusetts
> > > 1990 200q
> > > 1995 900 SET
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 17:56:49 -0800 (PST)
> From: Rob Winchell <rbwinchell at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [200q20v] heater blower replacement HELP!!!!!
> To: Phil & Judy Rose <pjrose at frontiernet.net>,
>         "200q20v maillist at audifans" <200q20v at audifans.com>
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
>
> Phil,
>
> I did this a couple months ago. I recall having to lay
> on the floor in the driver's side foot well and
> pushing up and out on the heater box to finally get it
> to come free. I remember it being a huge PITA.
>
> Rob Winchell
>
>
> > I'm partway through the agony of trying to replace
> > the heater blower in my
> > '91 200q. I've gotten to the point of trying to
> > separate the blower box
> > from the firewall, but it seems to be held firmly in
> > place with a pretty
> > damn strong gasket/adhesive. And exactly _where_ can
> > I apply leverage?
> > People talk about using screwdrivers? Huh?
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
> http://photos.yahoo.com/
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 15
> From: STEADIRIC at aol.com
> Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 21:12:50 EST
> Subject: Re: [200q20v] heater blower replacement HELP!!!!!
> To: C1J1Miller at aol.com, pjrose at frontiernet.net
> CC: 200q20v at audifans.com, quattro at audifans.com
>
>
> In a message dated 12/30/00 7:04:45 PM, C1J1Miller at aol.com writes:
>
> >I strongly considered cutting the plastic ("steak knife" technique) but
> >didn't resort to it; if you do, it is probably fairly easy to re-seal the
> >cut portion again.
>
>
> I've done 15 cars using the steak knife method, and you would never know
it
> unless someone pointed it out to you....  It makes no difference heater/AC
> performance wise.  Best of all using my method the job can be done in less
> than 1 hour.
>
>
>
> Eric Fletcher
> '00 S4tt
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 16
> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 03:19:32 +0100
> From: Per Lindgren <lindgre at online.no>
> To: quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: Info on Wotan AG
>
> I looked around on this site and noticed they had good prices on Euro-spec
> headlights as well as RS2 bumpers (Original plastic and replica GRP),
engines
> and many other stuff for most Audis.
>
> I got a few prices on headlights and turnsignals, these prices are in
Euro's:
>
> Headlight 100 T44: ?134.98
> Turnsignal, amber: ?20.35
> Turnsignal, white: ?45.76
>
> Headlight V8 T44: ?305.75
>
> Headlight 100 C4: ?142.14
> Headlight S4 C4: ?263.83
> Turnsignal, amber: ?25.16
> Turnsignal, white: ?29.76
>
> Headlight 90 T81/85 Hella: ?151.39
> Headlight 90 T81/85 Cibie: ?140.51
>
> Headlight 90 T89 Hella: ?147.76
> Headlight 90 T89 Valeo: ?140.61
>
> Headlight 80 B4 4-cyl (H4): ?119.44
> Headlight 80 B4 5+6-cyl (H4+H1): ?144.80
> Headlight 80 B4 S2+RS2: ?196.34
>
> Headlight A4 Ellipsoid (99-up): $143.16
>
> Bumper, RS2, GRP: ?339.00
> Bumper, RS2, original - raw: ?659.00
> Bumper, RS2, original - complete w/lights etc.: ?1099.50
>
> They also claim to have black taillights for T81/85, T89, T44, B4, C4 and
> Cabrio, but I'm not sure. POA is the only info. Adn as usual, I have no
> affiliation etc, just passing along the info.
>
> PerL
> 92 Cab 2.3
>
>
>
>
> Mike & Tanya Atkisson wrote:
>
> > I realize now I made a typo.........The correct website is
www.wotan-ag.com
> >
> > Check out their Website  www.wotag-ag.com  (It helps if you understand
> > German)
> > I have sent them a few E-mail and have had good luck in getting
responses.
> > Mike
> >
> > _________________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 17
> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 03:19:34 +0100
> From: Per Lindgren <lindgre at online.no>
> To: quattro <quattro at audifans.com>
> Subject:  Finally!
>
> Finally, I have found some time to take some photos of my car and
> putting together a website with some of the pics. The URL is:
> http://perlindgren.tripod.com/cabrio.html
>
> PerL
> 92 Cab 2.3
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 18
> From: "Leah and David Mueller" <muellerl at cadvision.com>
> To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> Subject: Slow fills at Gas Station on 86 4kq
> Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 19:56:13 -0500
>
> Does anyone else find their 4kq difficult to fill quickly at the gas
> station?  My 86 4kq seems to be getting more difficult to fill unless I
> barely squeeze the handle and have the nozzle part way out of the fuel
> entrance.  In fact, the other day I couldn't even get it full.
>
> David
> 1986 4kq (Canadian model)
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 19
> Reply-To: <skolu at cts.com>
> From: "shawn" <skolu at cts.com>
> To: "Al Powell" <powellae at home.com>, <quattro at audifans.com>,
>         <EPIFORM at email.msn.com>, <audi at mediaone.net>,
>         <Michael.Murphy[mjmjr at optonline.net]>,
>         <Mark.Vogt[mwvogt at mindspring.com]>,
<Greg.Rich[greg4vwparts at usa.net]>
> Subject: Re: '89 200 2WD 3 spd Auto Trans Intermittently poor Shifting
> Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 18:56:39 -0800
>
> OK Final update, First of all and most importantly I mistakenly measured
the
> fluid level with the car not running.  As a physician friend says, "80% of
> the diagnosis is from the history" sorry to have mislead you.  When I
> measured ATF running it barely wet the bottom of the dipstick.  Clearly I
> had almost run my tranny out of fluid.  I took many peoples advice and
> checked the final drive oil, it seemed to be pure oil (not sure synthetic
or
> conventional), no ATF contamination.  I sucked it out using a little hand
> pump and replaced it with Mobil 1 synthetic.  replacing the drain plug was
> near impossible.  I couldn't get the 17 mm hex wrench to line up in such a
> way to engage threads.  I cut through the too with a dremel cut-off wheel
in
> order to spin the tool 360 deg.  Still didn't work.  Started to remove the
> transmission mount bracket, but couldn't get to top bolt.  Finally, I
> thought to take a wooden dowel and wrap the end with duct tape, force this
> in the hex and use it almost like a ball head allen wrench.  It went right
> in.
>
> I unscrewed the dipstick tube and drained what I could of the ATF.  I
poured
> in 3 quarts and drove it a several miles.  Checked the level and found I
was
> 1 quart too full.  Rather than go back under and drain a quart I used the
> hand pump and a long clean rubber tube and sucked a quart out the dipstick
> tube.
>
> I have refilled and things seem fine.  I may be overly optimistic, but I
> think I may have averted a disaster.
>
> I'm really not dumb, but you couldn't tell it by my efforts at maintenance
> and repair.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Al Powell [mailto:powellae at home.com]
> Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 11:56 AM
> To: quattro at audifans.com
> Cc: skolu at cts.com
> Subject: 200 Tranny Question
>
>
> "Shawn" <skolu at cts.com> asked:
> Subject: '89 200 2WD 3 spd Auto Trans Intermittently poor Shifting
>
> >The two issues that have arisen:  Left home, car cold, wouldn't shift
from
> 2nd to 3rd would have run up to (and beyond?) redline.
> This morning put the car in reverse and it took a couple seconds to
"catch".
> The issues seem to spontaneously resolve after the transmission warms up.
> The fluid when measured warm, not hot, was half way between add and full.
>
> >Is there any easy way to diagnose my problem or an "AT Tune-up in a can"
> >that I can add to the fluid?
>
> Shawn, the only news I can give you is not encouraging.  If your tranny
has
> never been rebuilt, it is almost certainly announcing that it's failing
and
> a rebuild is due.  If you must leave on Sunday, go for it, but understand
> that you may or may not make it to Boise before you lose third gear.
>
> Here's the story:
>
> The 5K-100-200 (10-valve) series used a three-speed tranny which is known
to
> have breakdown issues.  It doesn't break as often in the non-turbo models,
> but the turbos tend to push the tranny harder and rebuilds in the 80K-120K
> mileage range are not unusual.  What usually happens is wear on the seals
of
> the hydraulic pump, which is the heart of the transmission.  The pump
looks
> a bit like a 5-pound weightlifter's weight laying flat with a six-inch
> broomstock stuck into it.  The "seals" are actually rings like piston
rings
> which fit onto the shaft sticking out of the pump.  (This description is
> getting too kinky, so I'll stop now....)
>
> Once the rings/seals start to wear, hydraulic pressure starts to leak past
> them and the car will shift into reverse slowly (that's a PRIMARY
symptom!!)
> and will experience shifting problems on the road.  Normally I've seen the
> failure to engage third when the tranny is hot - at which time it won't
> engage third gear, but will only drive in second.  Makes sense, as the
> hotter the ATF gets, the more easily it will leak past the seals.  The
wait
> for Reverse to engage is, I think, waiting for the tranny to build up
> pressure.
>
> My best guess is that the tranny is about to go.  A rebuild will cost you
> about $1800-$2000, and can be done by any shop that knows Audis or VWs, as
> the tranny is a (very) slightly beefed up VW tranny.  Considering the
value
> of the car, you may want to get trade it if you don't have the $$ for the
> rebuild.
>
> Leaving for a 1,000 mile trip is a crapshoot.  My opinion (based on two
1990
> 200 model tranny rebuilds) is that you'll make it to Boise, but you may be
> in second gear and limited speed for part or much of the trip, especially
if
> it's already dropping out of third when hot.  I would suggest you take the
> car out for an hours drive NOW to see if it still engages third reliably.
>
> Could you use a tranny additive?  Frankly, yes.  I don't like them, but if
> the tranny is going out anyway, using an additive which would thicken the
> ATF would probably buy you time and mileage before the tranny won't engage
> third anymore.  That's probably the only thing you could do in the day
> remaining.  I don't THINK it would trash the tranny on the way, but no
> promises.  My opinion is that these trannies are easily tough enough to
take
> 1,000 miles plus of additive-added driving.  If you drive it, park
overnight
> so you do NOT have to back up in the morning, in case Reverse gives you
real
> problems.
>
> Want advice?  Trade TODAY, or use an additive and plan on a rebuild when
you
> get to Boise.  Wish I could be more encouraging.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> Al Powell
> Fort Collins, CO
> '58 Fiat 1200 Spyder
> '83 Datsun 280 ZXT
> '90 Audi 200
> '90 Ford F-150
> powellae at home.com
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
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