5ktq Headlight Wiring

[Todd Phenneger]

FWIW,
  I moved from 12ga to 10ga.   I also moved to a special H4
connector that allows me to input the Three 10ga wires directly
into this connector that attaches to the H4.  Direct connection.
 I ran 10ga grounds.  ANd 10ga directly to the H1's that are on
the inside of the H4's.  H4 Highs share a relay, H1s share a
relay, and each H4's low has its own relay.  (So if relay goes I
still have one low beam untill I can stop and swap the H1 relay
in.
  What did I notice.  Not much over my old 12ga setup going to
the factory 16ga pigtails.  However, what I did notice is that
on the Passenger side, the light did get brighter.  The driver
side with only about 2.5 feet of wiring seemed to stay the same.
 But passenger side did get brighter.  I imagine its a case of
both the 10ga wiring and the new connector.  Replacing the 10ga
first on driver side didn't seem to make any noticable change. 
But then adding the new connectors did seem to help a "BIT" but
that could be my imagination.   But the combination on the
passenger side definately made a difference.
  This was with 130/100w H4's and 130w H1's so they do take a
bit of power. :-)
  Also, FWIW, I broke one of my Hella H4's.  4x6" for early 5k
and 4kq cars.  I replaced with cheap JC Whitney Euro beam light.
 While it was 1/2 the price of the Hella (only $20 with bulb) it
does not have as refined a beam pattern.  I will go back to
Hella's on the ur-q.  Untill I get the Cibie Lights. :-)
 l8r
    Todd

> <clipped for brevity>
> much shorter. But again, I would recommend using 14 ga. wire.
> On mine I 
> used 12ga. wire throughout but I'm still using the OE bulb
> connectors which 
> are about 2" long. I don't think I'll see any difference if I
> replace the 
> connector w/ a 14ga type. Nor do I believe it's any source of
> fire or heat...
> 
> -ameer


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