coolant on the floor. Need help!

[Konstatntin Bogach]

Michael,

thank you very much. It's great help! 

Michael Murphy wrote:
> 
> Konstatntin Bogach wrote:
> >
> > I would really appreciate if someone outlined main steps in taking
> > heater housing out. I disconnected hoses already, removed wipers
> > assembly and could not find any screws fixing the housing to the body.
> > >From other hand it is attached to the body pretty solid. Is that just
> > sticky gasket? Should I just pry it? What I need to remove from inside?
> > Sorry, Bentley does not cover it(it says: disconnect hoses and remove
> > housing). At least, I did not find it.
> >
> Konstatntin,
> 
> I hope other listers have already answered your question...but yes it is
> the heater core and it is a PITA.  Just did mine last weekend on an 89
> 100.
> 
> The airbox is stuck to the interior wall with the world's strongest foam
> gasket.  You will need to cut into it at the firewal to facilitate
> airbox removal.  The heater core cost is about $40-50.00.  Time needed
> to R&R it is a full day, or more.
> 
> Interior connections:
> You will have to disconnect the vents, especially removing a screw that
> attaches the bottom rubber vent outlet to the air box.  Also remove:
> 1. Center console - first disconnect all switches, radio, AC control
> panel - front cover
>    is a "clip on" panel that prys off by inseting a small screwdriver
> where black
>    plastic panel meets center console and prying inward towards the
> middle of the panel.
> 2. Glove box, and additional trim below the glove box.
> 3. Tray below steering wheel.
> 4. Floor vent connections to the airbox.
> 5. Vacuum hose manifold connector (from AC programmer to airbox - the
> thing with all
>    the different colored vacuum hoses) - You can leave the 2 solinoids
> attached to the
>    airbox.
> 
> Exterior - under the plastic phlenum cover:
> You already know that the wiper motor assembley has to come out.
> Disconnect the vaccum hoses on top of the airbox.  Also the harness
> connector to the airbox potentiometer and the blower motor - BTW, if you
> don't know how old the blower motor is, you might want to R&R that too.
> 
> The plastic ~7" tube connection from the evaporator to the airbox needs
> to be removed (3 screws).  The airbox should be pryed up from the front
> first - this is in the Bentley - I used some scrap wood to rest on the
> front firewall and a 2x4 to accomplish the same thing as the VAG tool
> Bentley references.  Once the seal is loose, the wiring loams (tie
> wrapped to the forward firewall) is a difficult obsticle to airbox
> removal.  It takes some creative movements of the airbox to finally get
> it out.
> 
> The airbox comes apart by removal of the clips around the center and
> three screws - one inside the white potentiometer housing that hold the
> flaps.  Getting the airbox apart is not too difficult except the old
> heater core (if OEM) will be sealed to the edge of the airbox and won't
> want to let go unless you use a razor to cut around the seal.
> 
> WARNING - putting the airbox back together is a bitch.  Specifically,
> getting the flaps to line up properly in their holes is a pain.  I
> resorted to tying thread around all the flaps and threading it through
> the corresponding holes to help with alignment.  BE VERY CAREFUL AS ONE
> OF THE FLAPS MUST ALIGN IN A HOLE THAT LIES UNDER THE LEVER MECHANISM ON
> THE DS OF THE AIRBOX.  DO NOT BE TEMPTED TO REMOVE THE PLASTIC SPRING
> WASHER FROM THAT FLAP.
> 
> If you have any questions about doing this job, don't hesitate to email
> me.  I know it's a bitch to do, but it takes a qualified shop about 7-8
> hours to do the job and @ $65-80/hr., that's a weekend away for you and
> your lady.;)
> --
> Mike Murphy