[urq] Re: URQ fuel pressure numbers
Ameer Antar
ameer at snet.net
Fri Oct 27 16:29:26 EDT 2000
ya carbs are easy to troubleshoot, just replace the brass/rubber parts. But
they can be a pain to set up and tune, especially w/ those DCOE webers on
little British cars. Setting 2 SU's was hard enough for me. The other thing
about carbs, is the auto-choke always goes. Manual is so much better, b/c
it gives you the control. I've heard good things about the new electric
chokes, though I'm sure that too has a lifetime. FI is great when it's
working cuz the mixture is precise and there's less maintenance. But
troubleshooting is complex and requires special tools.
Anyway, if the d.c. is low, then the mixture is too rich, ie. the ecu is
trying to lean the mixture. The d.c you measure is the output of the ecu to
the frequency valve. This means this valve is almost opening very little,
almost 0%. If the valve is closed, almost no fuel is returned to the tank.
This creates higher pressure on the other side of the valve. The other side
of the valve is connected to the fuel dist. chambers, and the increased
pressure in the chambers mean a leaner mixture, b/c the airflow sensor
plate meets more resistance to going up. This is how the ecu leans the
mixture by o2 sensor command or when the warm-up regulator warms up. The
warm-up regulator also increases the pressure in the chambers when it is warm.
When d.c is high, the opposite will happen, or should happen. At 90%+ the
valve is almost always open, so all the fuel pressure is relieved back into
the tank, allowing the airflow plate to rise, increasing fuel metered to
the injectors. This is the response to a lean mixture. You'd know all this
from the Bosch FI book...
Sounds like the problem is intermittent and/or only occurs during certain
conditions. A good Air-fuel ratio gauge can at least tell you what's going
on when. It will tell you what the o2 sensor sees and what the ecu sees. I
had similar issues. It helps to at least know if the problem is rich or
lean running, b/c either will cause poor performance. I could see in the
morning my mixture not able to get anywhere near the middle, so I knew the
warm-up regulator had issues. I could also see, after certain adjustments,
the WOT enrichment was too high, causing the car to actually lose power at
WOT. It can be a helpful tool, but it won't tell you everything, and
shouldn't be used to tune your 350HP engine. Those guys need analyzers and
dynos.
sounds like you are on yer way to finding something out....
-ameer
At 12:25 PM 10/27/00, you wrote:
>Thanks for the reply.
>The gremlin I'm chasing is low end power fluctuations. At times it pulls what
>feels normal, and is a pleasure to drive. Other times it is very slow and
>sluggish. Full throttle is good. The crackle is usually in direct correlation
>to the other behavior. At times it has even had slight hesitations (not a
>misfire) at 1/2 throttle acceleration.
>If there is a constant, it is that as I turn the mixture screw CCW (giving
>higher DC readings) the low end seems better but the crackle is obnoxious. If
>I turn it CW (lower DC readings) the crackle disappears, but it is a dog to
>get going. Is the latter an indication of lean running, or is the higher DC
>number showing lean?
>It is confusing to me from the stand point of discussions stating that a
>reading of 4.6 indicates a rich condition, AND that the ECU is trying to
>richen the mixture. Those are opposite situations. In other words, what ever
>the DC is trying to do means the engine is experiencing the opposite. Right?
>Carburetors were soooo easy. I guess it must be a labor of love.
>Thanks for all the help.
>
>Dennis
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