Tie rod ends. 4000 Q Rears

[Suffolk]

Subject: Re: Need advice on breaking free rear 4kq tierods and ball joints
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 08:09:17 -0400

If you have air tools the Home Depot sells a ~ Campbell Hausefield air
chisel for ~$30 and there are 5 chisels in a set, for ~$ 12.     Those that
don't come out with liquid penetrant and the sledge (on the nut covering the
end of the treads) get the magic air chisel.  As you look at the treads
sticking thru the hub assembly (conical "V" Shape), place a nut and thread
down until flush with the end of the treaded shaft ( to keep the threads in
tact and help keep the chisel point ( use the round pointed one) from
slipping off the end of the threaded stud as you squeeze the trigger and
BRUp,brup,brup the whole thing loose.  It will only go to the nut (broken
free) so you'll have to socket off the nut to pull the assembly free.  BUT
if you did alot of chisel point walking to the nut at the contact point with
the treads you may now need a nut splitter to take off the nut.        I'll
be doing that this week or so.
-Scott BOSTON   just some input.

Had a similar problem with my 86 4kcsq as well.  I was able to get the rear
tie rod ends loose with a torch, and a large hammer.  They were not reusable
when I was done though.  The ball joint on the drivers side was nearly
impossible to remove.  What I ended up doing was pulling the ball joint
seat(not sure what it is called)out from the control arm, and removing it
and the strut assembly as one piece.  I then went down to the workshop, and
tried to remove it with a torch.  Couldn't get it.  Then I tried a torch,
and a large sledge.  Still couldn't get it.  Eventually, I took the bolts
off of the joint, where it seats into the bottom of the strut assy, and
cut/pried the joint out, so I just had the ball joint and seat as a piece.
Then the drill press got the ball joint out.  Took me a total of 3.5 hours
for that side.  Funny enough, the passenger side ball joint popped right out
with a little heat and a tap from the hammer, and I was able to use the
appropriate tool to get the joint out of the strut assembly.  That side took
much less time.    Wasn't a very elegant way to fix it, but it worked, and
the rear suspension is much tighter.  The guy at the alignment shop was
appreciative.  I dropped off the car, and he rolled his eyes and started
cussing under his breath.  When I went back to pick it up though, he was
smiling, and said "that was the easiest alignment I've ever done on one of
those damn cars".  I guess it helps when every component on the suspension
has just been replaced.  :)
Sorry for my ramble, and good luck with yours.

groa at Cinergy.com>
To: "'quattro at audifans.com'" <quattro at audifans.com>,
"'mrobinso at CH2M.com'"
<mrobinso at CH2M.com