auto tranny

[Jay Dias]

This may be of interest to you, i just perform this repair and it worked
well but took about 10 hours not bad for the first time
to do it again 4-5 hours. Anyway i think if you follow these instructions
the other requirements to totally remove tranny would be

1-    disconnect tranny cooling lines.
2-    the tranny has 4 bolts connecting to final drive the 2 bottom are easy
to access, the 2 top bolts are not as easy and will probably be easiest with
two people (ie: 1 man underneath to guide socket for ratchet operator up
top). This is done easiest while pivoting tranny on motor mounts you may
want to disconnect some air intake pipes and front belts for more clearence
at engine front i didn't need too but just had enough room to remove 2nd
Gear Brake Band Piston.
3- the mounting bracket top bolt  on the LH side is a bitch to remove but
can be done with accelerator cable left attached, use a shallow 17mm socket
to get mounting bolt loose then use wrench.

Let me kown how you made out.

HTH!

jay

86&87 5kt



 ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Dias" <jsdias at telusplanet.net>
To: "David Conner" <conner at cfm.Ohio-State.edu>
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2001 4:49 PM
Subject: Re: Leaking ATF from 2nd Gear Brake Band? Type 44


> fyi your instructions work perfecly for turbo as well, except i cut the
> exhaust pipe and welded back on ( very difficult to remove exhaust
manifold)
> no more leaks.
>
> thanks again
>
> jay
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Dave, Thanks for the excellent info.
>
> I've got a couple of more questions.
>
> Did your 89 100 have turbo?
>
> When you take off the tranny mounts does it drop low enough to remove circ
> clip and piston?
> w/o removing anything else ( except exhaust), the reason i ask is that the
> tranny is bolted to the final drive which is bolted to the motor and i
don't
> want to put any excessive stress there and would be suprised to see that
> much play i suspect it would pivot on motor mount?
>
> jay
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave Conner" <conner at cfm.Ohio-State.edu>
> To: "Leah and David Mueller" <muellerl at cadvision.com>; "Jay Dias"
> <jsdias at telusplanet.net>
> Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 7:58 AM
> Subject: RE: Leaking ATF from 2nd Gear Brake Band? Type 44
>
>
> Giving credt where due ... this came from  "Dupree, Jim"
> <dupree at alldata.com>
>
> Following his instructions I was able to cure my leak w/o removing the
> trans.  Things I would add...
> - this would be a good time to replace transmission mounts since they have
> to be removed to replace the seals, and only cost $10 each when on sale at
> TPC.
> - the exhaust down pipe is surprisingly easy to unbolt.  I had expected
the
> nuts to be rusted and siezwed, but they were not, because they are a
> special alloy.
> - I believe there are three seals to be replaced
> 1 each, 003 323 525A, sealing washer, 97 mm
> 2 each, 010 323 533, sealing washer, 91 x 3 mm
> Bentley says to replace the gasket between downpipe and exh manifold.  I
> didn't and it seems to be OK ... so far.
> Good luck!
> Dave C.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dave Conner [mailto:conner at cfm.ohio-state.edu]
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 1999 7:05 PM
>
>
> > To: Dupree, Jim
> > Subject: RE: Leaking ATF from 2nd Gear Brake Band?
>
> >Dave,
> >It is not easy and I have not done it in quite awhile.
> >The piston has a big spring on it pushing it out from the Trans and into
> the
> >cover. You need a pry bar and a block of wood to push against the cover
> with
> >while you remove the circlip. The cover will be pushed out by the spring
> >tension on the piston assemble. The cover is actually the cylinder for
the
> >piston and is about 1 ½ inches thick. You should be able to slip it off
the
> >piston and remove it to clean it and install the new o-rings. The piston
> >probably will not come out of the Trans because of the length of the push
> >rod attached to it. On some of them the push rod it attached with a
circlip
> >and can be left in the Trans while the piston is remove . Or you can just
> >replace the seals on the piston with it still in the trans. The seals are
> >directional so pay attention to the way they face before you remove them.
> >You may nee to unbolt the Trans mounts so the Trans can drop down some
for
> >the needed room. Lubricate the seals and o-rings with Vaseline and be
> >careful pushing the cover back in to avoid cutting the o-rings. Oh the
> >exhaust down pipe needs to be removed as well.
> >I hope I'm not missing anything.
> >Good luck
> >Jim Dupree
> >
>
>
>