Wheel question for newbie
Larry C Leung
l.leung at juno.com
Mon Apr 16 18:23:37 EDT 2001
To drive DIY's nuts (hah, hah!)
The worst case of this had to be my 4KQ. The STOOPYD disks would rotate
(didn't have the IMHO shouldn't have been necessary stupid plastic stud
locator tool). I've seen this on Mazda RX-7s, too. From what I recall
from my Engineering courses (too many years ago to want to count), studs
are actually structurally stronger than bolts, so it's my guess that the
bolt set-up must save assembly labor costs somehow.
LL - NY
On Mon, 16 Apr 2001 08:58:20 -0400 "Michael Guidotti"
<MAGUID at MAIN.DJJ.STATE.SC.US> writes:
>check the Tire Rack, this is where I purchased my TSW wheels for my
>5000 tq and they came with new bolts with a tapered seat to match the
>rims.
>Just out of curiousity does anyone know why Audi and several other car
>companies use bolts instead of a stud and nut setup??
>
>thanks
>Mike Guidotti
>87 5KTQ
>88 GTI 16v
>
>
>>>> <BBBurban at aol.com> 04/14/01 02:13AM >>>
>I just got a wicked good deal on a set of PCW's with 205/50/15. The
>problem
>is that the stock Audi lug bolts use a ball seat, and these use a
>strait
>wedge type seat. I know there is a kit to replace the bolts with
>studs and
>nuts but I would rather stay with bolts.... The only shop around here
>that
>can help me wants $85 dollars for a set of the wedge type bolts (of
>course
>the kit they want something like $125 for)... Does any one know where
>I can
>order some bolts and failing that maybe the kit cheap? Also has
>anyone taken
>stock wheel bolts and machined them down to have the wedge shape
>successfully? Would try it but not sure there is enough material for
>that.
>Oh yea. I would also need some additional length to make up for the
>thicker
>rim. Mark Chang told me check with Javad. Any ideas if you are
>reading this
>Javad?
> Thanks all....
>
>Hank 1990 Audi 90q20v
>
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