runnin rough

[Jesse+ Clendenning]

You have covered many of the bases. Depending on how cold it is where you
live you may have to chech and see if the cold start injector is working
also, but that is obviously not the root of the problem, as you know.
Two things have to happen in order for your machine to run well while it is
cold:
#1 is an enrichened mixture while the engine warms up. This is dependant on
correct cold control pressure which is dependant on correct warm control
pressure. You will have to measure this current at the differential pressure
regulator (this is what the mechanic was speaking of when he said hydralic
pressure regulator). Use your Bently for hookup, the meter must be in series
with the connector and and the plug that are nearest where all your fuel
injector lines come together at the fuel distributor. The small plastic
attachement to this is the differential pressure regulator. It varies the
fuel pressure in small increments to fine tune the mixture according to
inputs from the oxygen sensor at the computer. It should be fluctuating near
0 mA when warm. Higher when the engine is cold.
#2 Is the Idle Stabilization System which is controlled by a double relay
under the dash by your knees while driving. This control unit is what drives
the current to the Idle Stabilizer Valve. Also the Ignition Control Unit
varies engine timing a little to achieve a steady idle. 
You should start with #1 on this list. Post you're results for current and
we'll go from there. It may be possible that the mixture has never been
adjusted. My father in-law has the same car which I help him maintain. It
was a recent purchase at just last year and his mixture had never been
adjusted because it still had the aluminum plug in the adjustment hole. The
mixture wasn't far off, but the adjustment made a definate improvement in
power and gas mileage. Good luck and keep us posted. 
It is raw determination that helps you beat the audi gods at thier own game!
On Thu, 26 Apr 2001 12:50:58 -0700 (PDT), Ron Wainwright wrote:

>    Thanks for the reply here's some answers to you'r
>  questions,
>    I dumped the codes originally and got 2341 ox
>  sensore  so I replaced it the old one had only 35k on
>  it like I saied but I haven't checked the codes since
>  then done a couple weeks ago,
>   I checked the Full throttle sensore with multimeeter
>  everything worked,
>   I allso checked coolant temp sensor and got the
>  correct readings as well,
>   then I checked Idle stabalizer valve power and the
>  stabilizer valve clicked or cycled as it's supposed to
>  do,  valve was replaced last year anyways
>   I allso checked the carbon canister shutoff solinoid
>  and I herd it click,
>    I had a hard start episode back in late 98( about
>  40k ago) and the dealer tech  saied that he applied
>  stabalizer to the temp switch( replaced a couple
>  months ago) and he applied stabalizer to the hydrolic
>  pressure regulator( is that the same as the
>  differential pressure regulator)?
>    Allso in early 99( about 42k ago) car wouldn't start
>  cold again so I had a bad connection at the fuel
>  distributor repaired.
>  
>    I have the Bentley's for my car and have been
>  through the Continuous injection system part
>  thouroully, and am very handy with a multimeeter know.
>   I'v been the original owner of the car since new and
>  after the warranty ran out I've done the lion share of
>  the work to it myself.
>   Any help would be great, get back to me
>  Thanks
>  Ron
>  87 5ksq(original owner)Euros,2C BBS,Eibach Prokit,Boge
>  turbogas, soon to have strut tower brace  
>  
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