How to Make a Pressure Bleeder was: [urq] '84 Ur-q Master Cylinder ?'s (more)

[Alan Kramer]

I've made an "industrial strength" pressure bleeder from some old pipe for 
virtually no $$.

I used a 2" x 6" piece for the main body.

I reduce the outlet of this to 1/4" by a 2" to 1/4" bushing.  After that a 
1/4"  ball valve and hose connection for the outlet.

Above the 2" piece I used another 2" to 1/4" bushing.

Put a 1/4" 4 way tee above that.

The top leg of the 1/4" 4 way tee connect a 0-30 psi pressure gauge.

To one of the side legs attach a air pressure regulator and set it to 10-15 
psi (NO MORE!!!).  On the other side of the pressure regulator connect your 
air compressor.

To the remaining leg of the 4 way tee put a 90 degree elbow then a 1/4" ball 
valve then a 1/4" to 1" cone shaped reducing fitting.  This will look like a 
funnel when you assemble it.  This is how you fill the device.

Make sure you close both valves when pressurizing.  Open the bottom one to 
bleed, open the top to remove pressure from the system and to fill.

You might want to temporarily zip tie the reservoir down to the MC to 
prevent blowing it off and forming a volcano of brake fluid when pressure 
bleeding.  You should be fine at 15 psi, but better safe than sorry...

To remove excess fluid from the reservoir, get an old reservoir cap, drill a 
hole thru it, and put a hose fitting in the hole.   Route the hose far away 
from the car, and keep it away from the paint of course.

Alan Kramer
http://www.geocities.com/audikramer

'83 CGT
'85 CGT supercharged project
'86 4kcsq
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>
>The set up in the U.K. is made by Gunsons and hooks up to the spare tire as
>a source of air. I thought the space saver tire pressure too much and 
>hooked
>it up to a front tire, even so I was aware that if the bottle top gave way
>or something loosed off, brake fluid could get sprayed all over the paint


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