I-5 crankshaft differences? (MC-1 ==> 4ksq project)

[auditude at neta.com]

So, to install the new rear main seal, I just evenly and smoothly
push it in?  Until how far, flush with the surface of the crank and
surrounding area?  I suppose just the same depth as the current,
old one is pushed in, eh? :-)

Is this something that doesn't have to be super-precise?  I would
really hate to have to drop the tranny again to refit it.  Does it
"snap" into place, into a groove or something, or maybe bottom out
in the place it's supposed to go?  Or does it need to be fitted to a
certain specific depth (using "the tool") to not leak?

On a semi-related matter, I heard that sometimes Saturn (I have
one) crank will get a groove worn in them from the crank seal, and
this requires replacement of the crank, which is apparently lost
foam cast like the block (but presumably of steel rather than
aluminum).

How about the pilot bearing?  Same questions regarding depth of
installation.  I was worried about damaging the outer race, by
driving it in using an impact method of some sort.  Does the plastic
pipe suggestion apply to both the rear main seal and the pilot
bearing?  Btw, the old pilot bearing that I removed (using a $30 tool
I ordered) did seem to have some play in it, with about 170k on it.

Thanks,

Ken

On 30 Dec 2001, at 18:11, DGraber460 at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 12/30/2001 2:33:23 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> auditude at neta.com writes:
>
>
> > By the way, while anyone's reading, where should I look for the
> > tools to install the new pilot bearing, and also to install the rear
> > main seal.  I did many searches of the online tool companies, and
> > didn't find anything for this for an Audi.
> >
> >
>
> I have found that plastic pipe works well for driving in seals etc. It is
> soft enough that nothing will be damaged if you mess up somehow. It is
> available in a variety of sizes, and is readily available from the local
> hardware store.
> HTH
>
> Dennis
>