What happens when the water pump seizes on an I5 ...

[isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk]

>     - I have a very slight oil leak from the crank pulley area. I've bought
> a new oil seal in case that is the problem. On other cars I've managed to
> replace such seals without special tools. Any opinions on how easy it is on
> this car (i.e. how tight is the interference fit and how soft the metal of
> the seal) or am i likely to have to remove the oil pump to do the job?

It might be a loose bolt.  The alternator adjusting strap pivot bolt,
for instance, also helps to secure the oil pump and blocks an oilway.

If it's loose - you have an oil leak.  20Nm.  The other small bolts
around the oil pump are 10Nm - some of them also block oilways.

If it's the seal - good luck.  You will need extreme patience to get it
out with standard picks.  Audi have a service tool that is essentially
a number of pick points arranged in a circle - you put it on the seal
and drive it round to engage all the points, then pull it off.  Don't
try and borrow one from Reg Vardy's in Leicester - they haven't got one
themselves.

Otherwise - oil pump has to come off.  New sump and oil pump gaskets,
new tab washer and gasket for the oil pickup.  Drop the front of
the front subframe, take off the bracket between the engine and the
bell housing, drop the (empty!) sump, remove the tab washer from the
front of the oil pickup pipe, take out the bolts, then go up the
front and take out the oil pump bolts.  Once the oil pump is on the
bench, the crank seal can be tapped out from behind with good drifts.

Make sure you align the oil pump and the crank X-drive when replacing
the oil pump.

Total about four hours first time out, dropping to just over two with
practice.

--
 Phil Payne
 http://www.isham-research.freeserve.co.uk/quattro
 Phone +44 7785 302803   Fax: +44 7785 309674