getting ready for the track [long]

[james accordino]

--- Tessie McMillan <tessmc at drizzle.com> wrote:
> I'll be tracking my sluggy &:-) '88 80 Q this year
> instead. My Quattro is
> a daily driver, and I have a laundry list of issues

> 	1. What would a good (CHEAP) set of track wheels be
> for this car?
> I have BBS-Moda 15" on there now with Bridgestone
> RE71s, but these wheels
> bend like crazy on the street and I don't want to
> track them. Is Borbet a
> reasonable wheel? Should I go with 15" since that is
> my daily drive?
> 
I don't know all your criteria, but steel wheels
actually weigh less than some alloys, and are MUCH
cheaper.  They are certainly more durable, but I don't
know why that would be a concern.(the potholes and
curbs were left on the street, right?)

> 	3. Is there something I can do with the fluid in
> the transmission
> that will make it more amenable to high temperature?
> I drove my Q, when
> it was stock, at the track once several years ago
> and it became very
> grouchy and hard to shift by the end of the day.
>
Try using Redline syn. like MT-90?  It's a full
synthetic 75W90 GL-4 gear oil.  Just DON'T use GL-5.
Others (Amsoil?) also make syn. gear oil.

> 	4. I'm using a 20w-50 Castrol in the engine now.
> (My mechanic put
> in Havoline but I could swear it made the engine
> tappier so I drained it
> out and replaced it.) Do you like the Castrol 20w-50
> for high-temp
> lubrication? 

This has always been my choice for a dino oil.  I have
used it in many different applications, with great
success.  My experience is the same as you described. 
When I switched to other dino oils in high temp./high
stress applications, I had oil issues.  I turned
Valvoline 20W50 into water in 200 miles once.

> Is there another weight/brand you
> prefer? Or does anyone use
> a synthetic? 

Mobil 1 gets the most cudos.  I have been using
whichever one is on sale, including Mobil 1, Castrol
Syntec, and Exxon.  After the first 2 or 3 changes
they stay much cleaner longer.  They also maintain
their viscosity much longer.
> 
> 	5. Would it be reasonable to unbolt the back seat
> and remove it
> from the car to get rid of weight, or would this
> negatively affect weight
> distribution? Any other weight ideas aside from the
> obvious spare tire,
> etc.? I don't want to strip the car because I use it
> to haul my dogs and
> equipment around for agility practice on the
> weekends.
> 
It is easy to do, but you won't gain much from
removing the rear seat.  The front saves alittle more
weight, but takes a few minutes longer to remove. 
Both are pretty easy to remove, but don't offer that
much in the way of weight savings.

> 	6. I have an annoying problem I need to fix first:
> after driving
> at consistent high speed on the highway, the brake
> pedal becomes stiff and
> I find it beginning to descend to the floor (braking
> the car). My
> mechanic wonders if this is a fault of the ABS. Is
> there anything I can
> do to diagnose and fix this problem myself? It is
> not a stuck caliper ...
> nothing related to the brakes themselves.
> 
Is your master cylinder the original?  This is a
common problem, not related to Audis, but do to the
switch to alloy for the MC bodies.  The rubber seals
actually hone the walls of the MC and this produces
the sinking pedal.  Your brakes WILL work fine, just
farther down the pedal.

> 	7. I cannot for the life of me heel and toe in this
> car the way
> the pedals are set up. Have any of you adjusted the
> pedals successfully,
> or is there a kit for this car? The accelerator is
> -- for my foot --
> pretty darn far away from the brake.
> 
You can adjust the height of the brake and clutch
pedals.  I don't believe you are SUPPOSED to do this,
but the clutch pedal has a clevis on a threaded rod,
and the brake(at least on my car) had an adjustable
push rod between the booster and the MC.  I don't
remember if the brake pedal also has a clevis on a
threaded rod at the pedal, as that would be a much
easier adjustment.

Jim Accordino