re. IM bolt removal - 83 5kt non-quattro

Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN) BSWANN at arinc.com
Tue Jul 17 18:30:58 EDT 2001


Tex,

You are on the right track.  That would be the "if all else fails solution".
I have a pic to post on the web about having to weld to an embedded stud to
be able to extract from the head I'm working on.  The extractor had snapped
off!

I haven't had to do the welding when using the 1/4" hex hammered in tight,
but it sound like a good last resort.  Make sure you've given the pt oil
time to work.

Anyway, don't even think about re-using the bolt.  Get some extra 6mm and
1/4" hex drivers too.  You will undoughtedly need them again, and when you
don't have them is when you need them the most.

This nickel and dime stuff is what can make these projects take much longer
than they ought - I know!

Regards,

Ben

[Ben - first I will try as you suggested below.  Then, as another person
told me, (a few minutes ago) I could try this: put the allen key in to the
bolt head and weld a bead around the key to hold the key to the bolt; then
apply the torque to remove the bolt; this method will require replacement
of the bolt and the allen key, but will extract the bolt.  Any reasons not
to do the welding act (if your suggestion does not work)?

Tex Terry, II
83 5kt auto non-quattro 4 dr sedan
Franklin, PA
> 
(snip)
> 
> If you feel like you are going to round out the bolt head, STOP, you are.
> Drive a 1/4" hex/allen driver in with a hammer.  It is just enough bigger
> than the 6mm that the fit will be tight enough to break the bolt loose
with
> out rounding.   You may sacrifice the 1/4 drive, but I've been able to
get
> them back out of the bolt by putting the allen part in a vice and
hammering
> out the bolt with a chisel.  BTDT many times.
> 
> Ben]




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