Facom Tools

[chris at force5auto.com]

> -----Original Message-----
> From: quattro-admin at audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin at audifans.com]On
> Behalf Of Donald Lamond

> The Facom tool, DM10A, is a tool  used to remove the old valve
> seals from the head while it is still attached to the block.

Ok, I was missing what we were trying to accomplish on this also.

> In an earlier post I inquired about anyone who had fabricated
> their own tools to do this job. The special tools needed would be a spring
> compressor, tool to remove old valve seal,  method of getting a new one
on, and of
> course, some way to keep the valve from dropping into the cylinder.

I've got a v/s compressor setup from SnapOn that seems to be a dead ringer
for the Schley setup. Paid about 120$ for it as I recall. I can grab a p/n
off of it if you'd like.

> The illustration in the Bentley shows a spring compressor rig
> that looked as if it could be fabricated without too much trouble. The
pliers to
> remove the old seals has funny looking ends and would probably have to be
> purchased.  I was thinking that any heat applied to the end of a set of
jury rigged
> pliers would certainly take the temper out of the pliers and render them
> useless.  I did get a hose to apply the pressure to the cylinder.  It's
made by Lysle
> here in the States.

Agreed, it's just a vulcrum/lever set that bolts to the head itself enough
to keep it down. My set didn't include the pliers or install tool, which I
got from a Lisle dealer. They're both cheesy items, but I paid about 12$ for
the pair. The pliers do have a circular lip on them that makes removing the
old dried up seals surprising easy. The first time I did it, I was glad I
had them. You're on the right track to keep the valves up, I've got a hose
also, robbed from the leakdown gauge set. Anything around 85psi should be
fine to hold the valves closed.

> Phil Payne mentioned in his post that a 1/4" socket is what he
> uses to slide the new seal on, "...  with lots of oil."

I like the plastic installer I've got because it has a bulb style end to
press down on. It's design encourages you to use hand pressure only to seat
the seals, and resist temptation to tap on a socket. Most v/s parts sets
also come with the plastic "condom" to cover the tip of the valve you're
working on. That enables you to slide the new seal into place without fear
of ripping it. It's said that electrical tape would work also.

Hope this helps.

-Cheers
-Chris Semple
Concord NH
'83 TQC
   '87 4000q
      '95 S6
         '84 4000tq Lightweight