brakes on a 1990 90

[Joel Lenorovitz]

Re: item #10.  If you don't use new bolts, be sure and at least put some loc-tite on
there.  Unfortunately, I learned that the hard way on my 4000CSQ.  A single front
wheel lockup at highway speed due to a loose caliper is something I would recommend
avoiding.

Joel

Message: 13
From: Ti Kan <ti at amb.org>
Subject: Re: brakes on a 1990 90
To: ticalnet at hotmail.com (Johnny Blazin)
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 22:36:34 -0800 (PST)
Cc: quattro at audifans.com

Johnny Blazin writes:
> ...
> brake job was done not to long ago. My guess is that she needs front pads 
> and rotors. i'm supposed to do this this weekend. Can someone fill me on how 
> to do this? Is it a straight forward job, or should I be aware of some 
> pitfalls? What about senors etc?

It's not difficult if you're mechanically inclined and have the proper
tools.  Basically, it is the following steps (and it basically applies
to any Audi model with Girling/Lucas calipers):

1.  Loosen wheel bolts.
2.  Jack car up and secure on jackstands.
3.  Remove wheel.
4.  Remove the lower brake caliper guide pin bolt.
5.  Swing caliper away from rotor, remove brake pads from caliper.
    If brake pad has wear sensor, disconnect.
6.  Remove rotor (may need to use a rubber mallet or somesuch to loosen
    from hub due to rust).  Some cars have a small set screw to secure the
    rotor to the hub, if so you need to remove that first.
7.  Clean the hub surface to which the new rotor will be attached.  Remove
    all trace of rust and apply a little grease to the hub surface to
    make it easier for future rotor removal.
7.  Thoroughly clean new rotor, pads and caliper with brake parts cleaner
8.  Open brake fluid reservoir cap.  Press in the piston in the caliper
    to allow the new, thicker pads to fit.  You may use the official tool
    for that purpose, or a c-clamp or small vise.  Be careful not to damage
    the rubber boots on the caliper pins.  While doing this, watch the 
    brake fluid level in the reservoir to avoid spillover.  You may need
    to remove some fluid with a big syringe or similar.
9.  Install rotor and pads, swing caliper back into place.
10. Install lower caliper guide pin bolt (a new one is highly recommended)
    and tighten to the proper torque.
11. Reconnect wear sensor wire if applicable.
12. While you're in there, inspect brake line and hose for damage or
    bulge, check condition of CV joint boots, etc.  Maybe clean the wheel
    well.
13. Reinstall wheel and wheel bolts.
14. Lower car to floor and tighten wheel to proper torque.
15. Do other side.
16. Check brake fluid level again, reinstall reservoir cap.
17. Test drive and use proper new brake pad bed-in procedure.

> ...
> knowledge)do this, or should I get it done professionaly? Any help would be 
> greatly appreciated. thank you.

Brakes are an important safety system.  If you have any doubt about your
ability or knowledge about doing this, let a professional do it.  However,
doing it yourself is fun, if a bit dirty.  Get a book on this and read up.
The official Bentley Audi service manual has all the procedures and tools
documented, as well as proper torque settings for the bolts, etc.  If you're
going to be doing work on the car, the cost of the book will soon pay for
itself in savings.  You can buy it from the dealer, various vendors listed
in the audifans site, or directly from the publisher http://www.rb.com

Good luck,

-Ti
01 S4 2.7 biturbo quattro
84 5000S 2.1 turbo
80 4000 2.0
96 A4 2.8 quattro (sold but not forgotten)


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