4K Clutch Bleed

[Mike Del Tergo]

>Hey all, as indicated in the subject line I have a
>1984 4000s quattro whose clutch master cylinder just
>died on me. I've replaced it with a new part but I'm
>not sure if I'm bleeding it correctly.

Jeremy,
It is a little hard to say, since you haven't mentioned what you've done 
yet.

>Does the >actuator rod need to be adjusted before bleeding is
possible?

Often times no, did you check to see if the adjustment was close to the part 
ypou replaced.  Some I've done are, while others don't even have the clevis 
end attached when delivered.

>there seems to be adequate travel in the pedal. Should the pedal sit 
>against the forward stop under the dash in the rest position?

Not sure what you mean here, but any real slack is what first tells you the 
master may have been toast.  (still could be the slave though)
The clutch is best bled with a pressure bleeder, ~$40 over the net, this 
also makes it a one person job!  Make sure the new master is full of fluid, 
some will come will little plastic nipples which I use for this purpose, 
with an easy bleed or the like.  Bolt up as necessary and pressure bleed 
with the slave bleeder as the escape valve.  Manual bleeding would be like 
the brakes I assume, but if you don't fill the master first, I think you 
stand little chance of success.  When you are successfully done, the cluth 
pedal action should be firm and return sharp. (unless of course the slave is 
bad too)
HTH
Mike
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