ISV-voltage

[Jukka Majanen]

Hi

Thanks for Your response Edo

> ...It is not controlled by voltage rather than by 12V
> pulse-width. If you measure 1.6V with a normal DC volt-meter,
> this might mean about 1/8 open. The ISV is supposed to be
> (a little) open when the engine is warm to stabilize idle.
> If you turn on the AC, or switch on a big electrical load

The car is a basic model no special loads, all I needed was
to make it idle better, when cold. Someone in the past had
made its´ wiring quite a mess, so it wasn´t worth to start
making it all again...

> Checking with a 9V battery is fine, the ISV must open fully.
> Putting 12V DC to it for longer periods might fry the ISV.

I checked it with my sons´ RC-car battery 8.4V, worked fine.
Measured 4 Ohms in the ISV, so I put there same resistance
in series to give it 6V supply instead of 12V. Now there is a
switch in the dash to open ISV for a short period, when cold,
I think 6V doesn´t toast it?

> Don't forget: The control module does not drive the ISV after
> you pull the plug to the ISV or the temp sensor (or the ISV is
> toast) until you switch off iginition. So the question is:
> how did you measure the 1.6volts? While connected or while off?

Yeah I know it, there was 0V when not connected and that 1.6V,
when it was connected with measuring wires. But what was funny, 
it opened and gave that 1.6V some 2 minutes after the start, cold or 
warm, it didn´t stabilize -just opened that much, even I screwed idle 
down or up. That´s why I wanted to make it even manual, to make
morning start ups easier. Of course I told the new owner what was
my solution for cold idling. He accepeted it, ok -he did get fine car
with that only one error also very cheap.

best
j-pm