Ben's 4KQ questions

[Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN)]

Jim,

Thank you for the reply.

1) I did some archives searching and found most of the time this is
aparently caused by the plastic gear next to the worm drive.  You'ld think
I'd be able to at least get one of these working.  I had tested one with a
drill and it was working.  Then as I was driving, the thing hits 144999 and
stops working.  maybe it is because there were too many 9's or the OX light
was coming on or I pressed the reset while driving.  I was frustrated to say
the least and must have interchanged spedos and consoles about five times.
Now I have a working odo, but the digital computer readout is not
functioning properly.  Expletives not expressed here.

3) I know that the charge is good - my mechanic freind suggested a blockage
as well.  Now, what would cause such a blockage.  I suppose there is nothing
i can do at this point without making the ozone hole bigger..kidding - I do
have a discharge tank, but am not an AC specialist per-say.  Frustrating
cause I put over $60 worth of freon in the system.  I can't believe I used
to buy that much for under $5.  

4) I have at least one spare heater valve to try.  I like the idea about
putting in a shutoff valve for summer use.

Now for some answers on -
5) Emergency Flasher Circuit not working.  More symptoms: Nothing with
ignition off when flasher swith depressed.  Comes on and stays on with
ignition on when flasher swich depressed.  totally disables turn signals
when flasher circuit depressed.  If I leave seith on with ignition, it will
eventually dim.  Is there another relay?  

Maybe I can get some of these things squared away before the car goes on the
long trip.

Regards,

Ben

[In a message dated 5/30/01, quattro-request at audifans.com writes:
> 1) 4 spare instrument clusters, none with an odometer that actually works.
>  Does anyone have some pictures or description of which gear I need to put
>  the locktight on to fix one of these?
Ben,
I did this repair on my '85 4KSQ.  The hidden OXS light odometer inside the 
cluster had jammed up when it got close to 120K and was about to turn on the

light.  The odometer had simply popped apart, since it couldn't move.  I 
removed & disposed of the OXS odometer and reassembled the real odometer and

it has worked fine for a year or more now.  No need for loc-tite on my
repair.
  
>  3) I charged the AC on the silver being driven to Florida, but the
>  compressor kicks on for about 5 seconds, then off again for about 1 min.
I
>  can hot wire the compressor to stay on contiuously, so am wondering what
>  potential culprits I may be able to fix to get the AC to cycle properly.

When the compressor kicks on, the pressure on the inlet side drops.  When it

gets too low, the low pressure safety switch cuts out the clutch.  You have 
either a low charge or a restriction in the freon system.
 
>  4) The AC problem seems to be compounded by hot air coming from the side
>  vents and defrost when car is warm.  I checked the heater valve control
>  works to close the valve.  Is this a shot heater control valve?  I'm
>  wondering if I should bypass the heater core altogether.
Yes, it is a bad heater valve.  I have temporarily gotten around this
problem 
by swapping a 1/2" plumbing valve in place of the ineffective original
valve. 
 It would help the anemic typ85 AC system to either bypass the heater core, 
or install an additional positive valve to completely shut off the heater.
A 
new VW valve has a little leakage into the heater core, I'm guessing to help

work air bubbles out of the system.  I have a new valve, t-stat, fan switch 
and radiator now, just have to find the time to install.]

Thanks,
Jim Chenoweth
Lancaster, Ohio, USA
Mailto: fj40jim at aol.com
Ph. 740.862.2604