Subject: Re: Fumoto oil drain valve

Robert Myers robert at s-cars.org
Mon Nov 5 13:11:37 EST 2001


--
Chris,

The two dissimilar metals, Aluminum of the pan and steel of the plug, cause
the blamed thing to seize up tighter than, uh, well..., you know what it's
tighter than.  Put it back with just enough torque to keep oil from
dripping and, 3K miles later, it's 3 foot breaker bar tight.  At least this
has been my experience.

At 10:27 AM 11/5/01, Christopher Ritchie wrote:

>>>That easy to unscrew plug quite often ain't.  Instead it would seize and be
>>>extremely resistant to remove - read round off the head difficult to
>>>remove.  BTDT,  The Fumoto drain valve makes a lot of sense.  One has been
>>>in my S6 with absolutely no problems over several years.
>>
>>My 200 has an apparently semi-rare "innie" allen wrench oil plug.
>>Trust me, no danger of ever stripping that sucker.
>>
>>However, I agree..they can get royally stuck in there. I once had to
>>use a 3 foot breaker bar to get mine loose.  I promptly smashed my
>>knuckles into the driveway when it gave.  Owwwww.
>
>
>Not trying to start an argument.  Obviously if you've had experiences, I'm
>not going to question them.
>
>But I can't see how oil pan plugs could be difficult after the first time
>you remove them.  It doesn't stay in there long - I assume you change your
>oil more than twice a year.  There's lots of oil in and around the
>threads, so it's not going to rust in there.  Even if a gorilla final
>torqued it with a breaker bar after cross threading it, you've got to
>repair it anyway for the Fumoto.
>
>Leaking and stripped threads I understand.
>
>Not questioning your experiences.  Just trying to understand.  Because I
>don't understand, and that means it's going to happen to me someday.
>
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Bob
*****
  Robert L. Myers   304-574-2372
  Rt. 4, Box 57,  Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA   WV tag Q SHIP
  '95 urS6  Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen    ICQ 22170244
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